Hymns of the Mountains – Gangtok (Part I)

Nestled among the snow covered peaks of Himalayas lies the state of Sikkim… Adorned by the scenic beauty and resonating songs of the majestic mountains. It is a world of different dimension that seems to teleport you into a promised land of snowy abode. Meandering through the uphill roads as you ascent the higher, small villages dotting the landscape can be seen downhill. Somewhere down among the valleys, the tranquil flow of Teesta river rejuvenates live around it.  The serenity of this mesmerizing land seduces one’s soul and makes it sink deeper into itself. It is not just a place you visit, it’s a quest for the ultimate purpose of our own existence.  

The township of Gangtok

Gangtok dwells in the eastern Himalayan range at a height of 5400 feet above sea level. It is the capital of the state of Sikkim and the headquarters of Eastern district of Sikkim. The town spreads across a tiny expanse of the mighty Himalayas. Houses hover at the edge of hilly cliffs. And the sky delicately seems to kiss it's heart with occasional tender fog. Life is calm here with equanimity peacefully seeping through the valley. A land that I had been aspiring to visit... A journey I had to take. 

On the Road to Gangtok

A spell binding sunrise - view from the train 

When my eyes flew open it was 6:30 AM in my watch. I could feel my body oscillating from side to side. The train was moving, though a little rough but steadily. I climbed down from my upper berth. It was a cold. The coach attendant might have forgotten to put down the AC. In search of a little warmth I decided to step out. As I opened the door, chill air rushed in sending a wave of goose bumps across my skin. Arms wrapped tight around my chest I walked up to the door. The sight that greeted me was mesmerizing... golden rays of the sun were illuminating the morning sky, silhouettes of trees zooming away and that cold rush of winter air was sending tremors through the body. Spell bound.

The sun was already up in the sky when our trains gently glided into New Jalpaiguri station. Buzz around the platform had a little high altitude fragrance to it. Our eyes undoubtedly fell upon the northeast's people, who reflect the serenity of the mountains. Somewhere across the platform tea vendors waving their hot beverage kettle were seen. In the early winter morning the temptation of sipping on a steaming cup of tea was irresistible. We got some for ourselves
.

Through the lense 

New Jalpaiguri serves as a gateway to the northeast province of India, to Darjeeling, Gangtok and even beyond the border to Bhutan. They say "Destiny is not important, but the journey is". I was about to find that out in short while. Mr. Amos our guide was already there to receive us. When we approached him, he was standing next to his car. His lean, skinny frame with milky fair skin shimmered in the early morning sun. Judging from his baby face and innocent look I expected him to be in his early twenties. Gosh, Does he even own a driving licence! A broad hearty smile from Mr Amos greeted us. He helped us stack up our luggage on the tiny roof of his small car - a silver Chevrolet beat. These vehicles are ideal for narrow mountain roads. He informed us that it would take around 4-5 hours to reach Gangtok, (125 kms). And our journey begun, to the mountains... The abode of the great Himalayas.

Coronation Bridge

After a little friendly argument I had been successful to get on to the front seat. The fact that I would be the unpaid photographer had won the argument for me. Besides, I was an armature photographer then and I loved the opportunity to refine my talent. The roads were scenic lined with tall oak and pine trees on one side and sheer cliff on the other. A complete view of the valley below enchanted the soul as we rode higher and higher. The Teesta river flowed in a serpentine path, making it's journey from the mountains down to the lowlands. It's crystal blue water carried with it the glacial chill of the Himalayas. We traveled alongside the river from Sevoke to Ranipool, an winding uphill road of around 80 kms. Mr. Amos made a stop a few kilometers from Sevoke, at the Coronation Bridge. This halt was partly because of a traffic jam and partly because he wanted us to cherish the scenic beauty of the place. A giant arc comprised the base of the bridge, colored in cream and pink. It stands as a memoir of the coronation of  King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1937. But locals prefer to call it "Baghpool", meaning tiger bridge as two lion statues adorn the entrance.

lone fisherman attempting to catch some fishes

Prayer flags flattered freely in the wind, stretching long across the bridge. The chime of river flowing placidly underneath casted a soothing feel on one's mind. Down on the riverside a couple of fishermen were busy in their endeavor to hook some fishes. Their empty baskets hinted at their yet unsuccessful day.  The caravan of vehicles slithered ahead and it was time for us to move on. The hilly slopes on the left possessed a constant threat of land slides. But the scenic eminence of the place seem to fade all risk factors. During a casual conversation Mr. Amos informed us of adventure activities along the way. One such activity that lured us was white water river rafting... And yup we were on it in no time.

River rafting - Riding the waves

A few kilometers uphill was a small adventure tour office. In fact it was just a shack with a tiny laptop placed on make shift table. The guy on the counter moved up to us hugged Amos. There was something that startled me, they both had resemblance. Their goatee seemed identical and their spiked hair as well. Brothers???? Mr. Amos set aside our thought as he introduced us to this guy who actually hailed from his own village. At first sight these North-east guys seem too similar, but believe me they all are different and unique. Soon enough we were given shortcut rafting lessons, basic yet life saving I suppose. A raft was loaded on to a trademark Wiley's jeep. Wiley's served as the ATV of the 80's & 90's.  It rode up hill a few kilometers and then bent down to the left into a graveled road that descended to the river's edge. The terrain was rough paved with stones of different shades and sizes. The stream of water seemed silent. It was early winters and the water level was down with no white rapids forming on it's surface.

Teesta river with the mountains in the backdrop

The beauty of the place was mesmerizing. The clear blue sky blanketed over the scattered alpine hilly slopes. The fluidity of the Teesta river trickled through the ravines kissing the tiny pebbles that laid in it's path. It was a land blessed with the grace of God himself. The icy water even could not deter our adventure seeking souls. In no time, we were in the water. Accompanying us were a guide and a raftman. We had our life jackets on, which I felt was just as a precaution. I took to the left front of the bow while my friend were asked to seat in a formation that balanced the vessel. Initial ride was smooth, not much of rough waters. Making our way through holes( water flowing over a rock) and laterals( waves peeling off an obstacle) our raft swiveled on the minor rapids. Our skill with the oars was not much of help as our guide was the one in control of the vessel. We just stroked on and tried not to fall off. It was an experience that will linger long in our memories. Towards the lowland the water became even calmer and we reached a point of low water. It was here that our guide asked us if we would like to take a swim.

Rowing through the calm waters

Me - "Swim!!! In these cold waters???"
Mr. Naresh (Guide) - "Haan, Saab ji. Ye pani upar Himalayas se aata. Isme ek baar dubki marne se bory ka sab bimara acha ho jata."
His hilly ascent was comforting but still we had our doubts. We exchanged puzzled looks. The thought that suddenly occured to me was... "What's the deal!!! It's going to be an experience of lifetime. Who knows when next I will get a chance like this?"
Without a second thought I jumped into the water. A shrill pain of thousand needles being pricked at once froze my body. The water was far too cold than I expected. It took a while for me to get acquainted to the freeze. Finally as the pain slowly dissolved a feeling of rejuvenating freshness took over. Indeed these waters cleansed one's body and mind. A few moments later my friends joined me as well.  We swam peacefully for a while before making it back on to the raft. And with this our rafting adventure was over.

We changed our wet clothes and jumped back on our Chevrolet beat. It was time now to move on ...Gangtok was waiting.

Do Drul Chorten Stupa

Gangtok welcomed us with open arms. Though it was late afternoon the cold refused to subside. Sudden gust of wind sometimes would send shivers down our spines. Mr. Amos told us that we still had time before it got dark and we could visit some monasteries. The prime religion in this part of the world is Buddhism. Many stupas and monasteries span across the mountains. I feel that peace is the way of life. The doctrine of Buddha made way to a new path of life, where sacrificing one's desires led to Nirvana. It's been 2500 years to that beatific day when Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the boudhi tree in Gaya. But his words and principles still resonant through out these pristine mountains and in far away lands. 

Amos drove us to Do Drul Chorten Stupa.

A portrait of Dorje Phurba

The bright white stupa stood calmly on a small hill. The dome rose up like a towering cone, having multi-tired square base. It's spire was ornated with an intricately carved golden parasol. Protecting the inner sanctum of the stupa was a square wall embedded with 108 Mani lhakor or prayer wheels. Buddhist prayers are carved on the wheels. It is considered that turning of the wheel represents reciting the mantra. The golden words seemed to emerge from the gyrating wheels carrying with it a chime of tranquility.  
The stupa was built in 1945 by Trulshik Rinpoche, one of the teachers of the 14th Dalai Lama. It housed a complete set of Dorje Phurba - The awareness being who stabs the root of anger and hatred. (As per Buddhist belief). Alongside it the stupa also contains Kangyur relics (Sacred texts of various schools of Tibetan Buddhism). 


Peace resided over the place like a winter blanket and an escape was not possible. Still, it was time now... we offered our prayers and bade our goodbye to Do Drul Chorten. 

Tashi View Point

The sting in the cold air was getting stronger and stronger with every passing minute. We desperately needed some warmth. Infact we wanted to wind up for the day and check in to our hotel. Our fingers had gone numb, head felt heavy. But Mr. Amos had other ideas. He wanted us to visit one last place. He kept it a surprise. Our many questions were only answered back with a child like smile. He stopped the car near an elevated archway. He pointed up to a series of stairs... "Wo upre Sab ji." And we obliged.

View of Kanchenjunga from Tashi Point

On reaching the top we fell awestruck. Vast open mountains were staring back at us from a distance. Ahead of us lay a series of densely vegetated array of valleys and hills. And beyond them was the golden sunlit mountain of Kanchenjunga. The portrait on the canvas of the landscape was a masterpiece of art by nature. I wondered what lie beyond those horizons as my eyes went moist. I kept staring into the nothingness for a while, but then I realized I was indeed engulfed by the enormity of these snow covered peaks. My thoughts went swiveling along with the winds into the sublime cradle of the valleys that sparks life. 

We stood there and watched the sun take a dip into the skyline of snow wrapped summits. Darkness followed fast as the sun vanished. leaving behind a purple blue tint in the sky. The chalice like night lamps on the terrace were lit up... and we decided to call it a day. We walked down to our car and headed for the hotel. We carved some much needed rest as we had a long journey the next day. 

Finally our first day in Gangtok came to an end. And we went to sleep in our cozy hotel room with the hymns of the mountains ringing in our ears.