The cold air was starting to sting when we left Gangtok. Mr. Amos insisted that we reach Darjeeling before it gets dark but for that we were already late. The road side little drum fireplaces were lighting up now, the streets getting scantier. This part of the world goes early into it's night slumber. It's just wanderer like us, travelers that traverse the distance between towns at night, at rare occasions local residents. Darjeeling lies at a distance of around 98 kms. from Gangtok in the state of West Bengal.
It was beyond supper time that we made into the township of Darjeeling. With no google map to guide us, I called up the reception of the hotel that we had booked earlier for our stay. The friendly voice of the receptionist on the phone had a tint of north-east ascent to it. He requested us to wait near the Mall road. And within minutes an assistant was there to guide us to the hotel. The streets were deserted except for some husky dogs roaming around. Our trolley bags trailing by, we made our way to the hotel. The night was dark and cold... we just checked in and went to bed.
The next day I woke up to a very cold morning. Slipping out of my cozy warm blanket I walked up to the window. The view that greeted me beyond those curtains was something that got imprinted on my soul forever. The valley below was still wrapped in mist and the sun seemed to be emerging from the golden womb of the clouds. It was like the sky was bathed with molten rays of the nascent sun. And my being floated away into that vastness of ethereal display of mother nature. "Beautiful", had a new meaning for me now. The hilly peaks merged into the sky with the clouds forming the bridge. Looking at this sight brought peace. And I cherished this moment till the clouds faded away into the horizon.
After a quick breakfast we headed out for the day's sight seeing. A few tourists spots had been shortlisted for the day as we had only a couple of days to explore.
Just down the Mall road, near the Chauk bazaar is the polished domed architectural marvel called the "Bhanu Bhavan" or as locals call it "Gorkha Rangamancha". Designed to be an auditorium, it was the cultural and social hub for public functions. Statue of Lady Saraswati adorned the entrance with two mermaids elegantly accompanying her on either side. Towering above the doom was a clock tower with globe and an eagle flying away from it. That day there was some competition being held as we saw some teenage girls making their way into hall with floral costumes. A lively buzzing crowd was assembled as well. As we moved in, the intricately carved wooden interiors were in contrast to the bright white exteriors. The woody brown inside had a homely feeling to it... just like the timbered hallway of the resort we stayed in. There was a lot to see and so we moved on. Next stop, Tenzing rock and Tibetan refugee shelter.
The Refugee Center was established by Buddhist Tibetan refugees in 1959. It was initiated with just 4 workers of the community and 10 member development committee with Tenzing Norgay as one of the pioneer members. Spreading across an area of 4 acres on the hill side, it comprised of a complex of small buildings. The complex housed sections of tailoring, knitting, wood work and painting workshops with Tibetan women duly engaged in each section. As we entered the weaving section, an old lady working on a weaving machine nodded at us as if inviting us in. I put down my camera and joined by her side. She just went on with her work, occasionally smiling at me with a glint in her eyes. This is what I have always loved about traveling... you come across strangers with diverse cultures and origin but you still can have a wonderful conversation with just a smile and simple human gestures. People always tend to understand the universal language of facial expressions. Words are not always necessary.
To Darjeeling
There is this thing with some people, a few puffs of nicotine enriched smoke and the warmth keeps them going. Amos was one among them. A few kilometers into our journey he stopped the car for refuel as well his lungs ached for smoke. Some sips of hot tea was that all we could comfort ourselves with. Getting done with our refreshments we drove on. I lay awake at the back seat for a little while, but the tiredness of the day was taking it's toll as my eyelids were falling shut. An envelop of mist was gripping the valley. The dark nightfall blanketing the hills. Slowly my vision got hazier and I fell asleep. With closed eyes, thoughts storm into the vacant space of the curious mind. Pictures of snowfall and unwinding roads on hilly terrains kept dancing in my thoughts. I was drifting away in my dreams when the sudden brake of the vehicle woke me. It was Ashis my friend peeping at me from the front seat. He asked me if we needed some thing to eat. We had stopped in a small village an hour away from the Rangpo bridge which we had crossed while entering into West Bengal border. On the other side of the road was a tiny house where a couple of women were busy stuffing momos in their make shift tea stall. We decide to have some. The village was merely a row of a dozen houses lined on either side of the narrow road. It was already 7:30 PM and we had no time for leisure. So, with no further due Mr. Amos was back on the wheels and we cuddled into our cozy seats.It was beyond supper time that we made into the township of Darjeeling. With no google map to guide us, I called up the reception of the hotel that we had booked earlier for our stay. The friendly voice of the receptionist on the phone had a tint of north-east ascent to it. He requested us to wait near the Mall road. And within minutes an assistant was there to guide us to the hotel. The streets were deserted except for some husky dogs roaming around. Our trolley bags trailing by, we made our way to the hotel. The night was dark and cold... we just checked in and went to bed.
A Misty day
 |
| Mesmerizing view of the clouds above and mist below |
After a quick breakfast we headed out for the day's sight seeing. A few tourists spots had been shortlisted for the day as we had only a couple of days to explore.
Bhanu Bhavan
Just down the Mall road, near the Chauk bazaar is the polished domed architectural marvel called the "Bhanu Bhavan" or as locals call it "Gorkha Rangamancha". Designed to be an auditorium, it was the cultural and social hub for public functions. Statue of Lady Saraswati adorned the entrance with two mermaids elegantly accompanying her on either side. Towering above the doom was a clock tower with globe and an eagle flying away from it. That day there was some competition being held as we saw some teenage girls making their way into hall with floral costumes. A lively buzzing crowd was assembled as well. As we moved in, the intricately carved wooden interiors were in contrast to the bright white exteriors. The woody brown inside had a homely feeling to it... just like the timbered hallway of the resort we stayed in. There was a lot to see and so we moved on. Next stop, Tenzing rock and Tibetan refugee shelter.
Tenzing rock and Tibetan refugee shelter
Darjeeling offered an awesome weather that day as we drove through the narrow hilly roads of the township. The green lushly landscape of Darjeeling Tea estates lined on the left while the mountain slope ascending to our right. Small houses dotted these slopes with winding fringe footpaths which led to their doorways. Our car made way through tight turns and hairpin loops. On one such turn Mr. Siddhart (Our tour guide and cab driver for Darjeeling) pointed out to a tall rock on the left. It seemed to be jolting out on the very edge of the slope.
 |
| On the footsteps of Tenzing Norgay |
"Sir, that on the corner is Tenzing rock." informed Mr. Siddhart. He continued, "It is a famous mountain climbing spot. We can make a stop there, if you wish have some try at it."
He then glanced back at my friends Ashis and Sai and smiled. They both weighed a little up on the weighing scale. I winked back at them, "No issues, Mr Siddhart we will give it try. I assume the rocks are strong enough.". A loud mob of laughter from all four of us burst out.
Tenzing Rock is a 50 feet high natural rock formation. It was made famous by Tenzing Norgay, one of first Mount Everest conqueror as he used to practice mountain climbing on this very rock. In his honor this rock was named after. One can easily afford this sort of adventure. They only charged one hundred rupees per person. Local instructors were present to assist us. After a thoughtful moment Ashis and Sai decided not to indulge in the activity. But I couldn't let go of a chance to plant my feet on the rock that made Tenzing an Everest climber. It was my first mountain climbing... besides for all the things in life there is always a first time.
After the thrilled moment at Tenzing rock our journey continued along the Lebong Cart road. About 30 minutes ride away is the Tibetan Refugee self-help Center. On reaching the place we had to leave the car behind and walk a few meters uphill as there are no direct roads to the center. My initial thoughts of a refugee center was washed away on my first glance. Infact it was a self employed - self sustaining center.
 |
| The counter at the Artifact showroom |
On the extreme left corner of the complex was the showroom displaying the artifacts for sale that were made in the workshops. Two young Tibetan ladies were dealing with the guests and assisting them with purchase. Walls were adorned with Tibetan paintings and hand woven shawls and blankets. Statues and figurines of Buddhist cultures were lined on the shelves behind the counter. The artifacts were far too brightly colored as compared to the snowy white land these workmen came from. Temptation of getting souvenirs was something hard to resist. I gave in to my temptation with a wall hanging.
On our way back we offered our prayers at the Tibetan temple near the Refugee center. It was just the beginning of a new year and we wished for it to be peaceful and prosperous. With turn of prayer wheels "Khor", I silently whispered under my breath "Om mani padme hun" .
The clouds in the sky had not faded all along the day. From behind the blanket of the overcasted sky the afternoon sun was trying to shine upon the hills. But it's efforts seemed futile. Air felt cold and heavy and our stomachs empty. We decided to have some food before we could carry on. Mr. Siddhart asked us to have a quick lunch as we still had a lot to see. But as events unfolded that day, it was never meant to be a "Quick lunch".
We were on our way back to main town for lunch while as a matter of casual conversation I enquired a little bit about Mr. Siddhart.
"So, Siddhart ji you live in Darjeeling itself ?", I asked.
"Yes sir. This is my hometown. My house is down this very street on the other side, next to Ghum Monastery.". He continued, "If time permits we will visit my home."
His words were warm carrying a hint of ownness to it. People around this part of the world are simple and humble, their hospitality is beyond words.
"Who all live in your family?", I enquired.
"My mother is old. I lost my father when I was 23. I also have a younger sister but she is already married and lives with us.", he said.
My friend Ashis and Sai were busy cherishing the view of the mountains back seat as we were having this conversation.
Mr. Siddhart took a pause and then spoke. "I retired from Indian Army in 2009 due to my mother's ill health. After that I took to tourism with my own cab.", he said tapping on his steering wheel.
I was enthralled, "Wow... which rank were you in?"
" I was a member of the alpha company of 13 JAK rifles." He paused briefly again.
" I served my nation along side "the Sher khan" of Indian army in Kargil war... the great Captain Vikram Batra."
His words made us jump out in surprise and we were blankly staring at him now...
A moment before he was just our cab driver and tourist guide, but we now realized that we were sharing seats with a National war hero.
He looked back at us with a tender smile reigning across his calm face... " It's a long story sir, hope you have enough time for it.", he said while he gently glided the car to a stop near a hill side restaurant.
Well, I could feel a journey of lifetime brewing on my cards.
"Darjeeling... what else will you be offering me"
On our way back we offered our prayers at the Tibetan temple near the Refugee center. It was just the beginning of a new year and we wished for it to be peaceful and prosperous. With turn of prayer wheels "Khor", I silently whispered under my breath "Om mani padme hun" .
The clouds in the sky had not faded all along the day. From behind the blanket of the overcasted sky the afternoon sun was trying to shine upon the hills. But it's efforts seemed futile. Air felt cold and heavy and our stomachs empty. We decided to have some food before we could carry on. Mr. Siddhart asked us to have a quick lunch as we still had a lot to see. But as events unfolded that day, it was never meant to be a "Quick lunch".
We were on our way back to main town for lunch while as a matter of casual conversation I enquired a little bit about Mr. Siddhart.
"So, Siddhart ji you live in Darjeeling itself ?", I asked.
"Yes sir. This is my hometown. My house is down this very street on the other side, next to Ghum Monastery.". He continued, "If time permits we will visit my home."
His words were warm carrying a hint of ownness to it. People around this part of the world are simple and humble, their hospitality is beyond words.
"Who all live in your family?", I enquired.
"My mother is old. I lost my father when I was 23. I also have a younger sister but she is already married and lives with us.", he said.
My friend Ashis and Sai were busy cherishing the view of the mountains back seat as we were having this conversation.
Mr. Siddhart took a pause and then spoke. "I retired from Indian Army in 2009 due to my mother's ill health. After that I took to tourism with my own cab.", he said tapping on his steering wheel.
I was enthralled, "Wow... which rank were you in?"
" I was a member of the alpha company of 13 JAK rifles." He paused briefly again.
" I served my nation along side "the Sher khan" of Indian army in Kargil war... the great Captain Vikram Batra."
His words made us jump out in surprise and we were blankly staring at him now...
A moment before he was just our cab driver and tourist guide, but we now realized that we were sharing seats with a National war hero.
He looked back at us with a tender smile reigning across his calm face... " It's a long story sir, hope you have enough time for it.", he said while he gently glided the car to a stop near a hill side restaurant.
Well, I could feel a journey of lifetime brewing on my cards.
"Darjeeling... what else will you be offering me"
