Meandering into Kipling’s Jungle Book (Part III)

KANHA NATIONAL PARK

The sun was overhead and the day was getting hotter when we reached our resort. The next safari began at 3 PM. We had a marginal time gap to freshen up, have our lunch and get ready for the next safari. Cooling out in the swimming pool was all that I could imagine to relax a little. Quickly I changed into my shorts, threw back a towel on my shoulder and headed for the pool. Blue bottom of the pool gave a de-stressful feel. I jumped in. Splashing water on my way through as I submerged, the water kissed every inch of my body sucking away some heat.  I lay there for quite some time before stepping out for lunch.

In Pursuit of  Kanha's Legends

By the time I reached the dinning, my wife and family were half way through their mid-day meal. Sweeping in some western food  into my plate I joined them. Now, this is where I am league apart from my family. My food habits are always a talk-talk among my relatives. By 1:30 we were done and on our way to Khatia gate.

Mr. Yadav as disciplined as an Armed force official was waiting for us. We were just in time to line up first for the evening safari. Safari jeeps started to queue up at the hind quarters of our jeep. After the uneventful morning we were a bit more hopeful now. Ram ji had already short listed a few areas of safari zone where sighting chances were higher as per the information gathered from the morning safari. Guides after every safari interact sharing the sighting of the previous safari and estimate target areas for the next one. Tigers are most active during early morning and late evening. During the heat of the day they tend to lay around at a cozy place and move very little. Thus the chances are higher to sight a tiger at the exact same spot in late afternoon where he was seen late in the morning.

Open grounds of Kanha Zone

A tigress with cubs was sighted near Link 9 meadows in the morning. It was guarded by mahouts of forest department mounted on elephants. It was said that, some VIPs wanted to sight them and the tigers were cornered at the exact spot till they arrived. This is how it happens around here in India, The men in power are always pleasured with the luxuries and the scraps left out for commoners. Sad but true. 

The gates opened and we led the convey of army green safari jeeps. Mr. Yadav with no waste of time asked the driver to steer the jeep to the last sighted location of the Tigress. In a matter of few minutes we were on the spot. Open vast meadows were dotted by some scattered trees overlooking a creek a few meters away. A small canal stretched across the road from where we stopped. Peeping out of tall cat-tail grass was a stone pillar, engraved "9" designating the location. It was link 9 area of the park, where the legendary tigers like "Link 9 Male" roamed. But the Tigress that we were after was "Neelam" aka Link 8 Female aka MD2. She had four few month old cubs with her. Tigress with cubs have to hunt very often to sustain their family. Cubs usually do not hunt by themselves till they are about fifteen to eighteen months old. They suckle from their mother for about a year or more. She was supposedly reported to have made a kill at the spot early in the morning and was there with her cubs for almost the complete day. Hence, it was a jackpot opportunity. Or so as we thought.

Forest Department Elephants encircling around the tigress 

As the jeep came to a halt, Mr. Yadav in his usual intense composure jumped up form his seat, stood tall on the railing, putting his binoculars on stared away to a distant spot. Our gazes followed his. At a distance of around 100 meters was a bunch of trees edgily standing on the verge of a deep water canal. Not much was visible because of the dense vegetation. To the right of the trees were a herd of elephants, three of them. Mahouts relaxed casually on their back, resting against the back mount harness. The elephants were facing a specific spot in the tall grass. It was exactly where the tigress was, as explained by Mr. Yadav. But the tall grass was head high and reached the lower shoulder of the elephants. Disappointment again ... no visual of the tigress and cubs.

Patience... virtue of the wildlife enthusiast as I had already told you, we waited for almost an hour. Straining our necks, climbing up on to the railing time and again, my camera lense zooming in and out innumerable times but all in vain. Ram kumar Yadav kept a constant vigil eye on the spot where he was sure that the Tigress took refuge. No reward. He concluded that the tigress has made a kill and will not leave the spot for a long time now. Tigers have this tendency of staying near their kill as long as there is meat left in the carcass to dig their teeth in. At intervals they walkout to quench their thirst and then get back to their kill. A large kill like an adult "Guar" can keep the tiger occupied for days. So, it was no good idea  to stick around and wait for the tigress to move out into the clearing  with her cubs. We moved on.

The vehicles rushed up and down within the park's dry muddy roads leaving behind a trail of dust storm. And we were forced to keep up in this smokescreen of flying dust. Mr. Ram directed the driver to a specific area of the jungle where the Kanha and Kisli zone met. He expected to have a tiger sighting there as it linked the two zones and was a prominent tiger corridor. "Corridor" are specific segments of the forest where wild animals cross for one part of the jungle to another. The tyres of the jeep railing on the rugged single lane of safari driveway, we blazed on in that direction.

Crossing the junction, we headed to a region of open meadow and drove through a small underlying bridge across a water channel. Just as we drove over the bridge ascending the up rising slope, Mr. Yadav Jumped up again. He yelled at the driver to stop. leaning forward, he pointed out tracks on the sandy pathway... "Tigress.." he called out. Observing closely he estimated the pug-marks to not be more than half an hour old. He traced them moving ahead for around thirty meter, with water drop marks on either side following as if the tigress had flickered her wet tail while walking. Marks were very faint and to an amateur's eye they might seem like depressions on sand.

Following the Tiger's Pugmarks

In a jolt of excitement he, he spoke out, "The tigress is in the water Channel."  I was surprised by his declaration but how the hell on earth did he know so! He explained without a pause..."Can you see Sir ji, there on the right edge of the road the pug marks have stopped. and just a few paces away are pug marks on the opposite direction. That means the tigress stopped at this position for a while and headed back towards the water canal." To my amazement, indeed it was so. The pugmarks traced back the same direction from where they had come. Tigress have smaller pug marks as compared to male tigers and the toes are closely placed. It was a Tigress.

The driver put the reverse gear and slowly we slid down back onto the bridge. The engine of the jeep turned off. Mr. Yadav was back on with his binoculars and ears ready to take in any sound or movements. We kept looking on either side of the canal but we could spot no movements. Tall grass and bulging boulders covered the water bed, with a small but consistently flowing water stream piercing through. Suddenly, Mr. Yadav lowered his binoculars and put a finger on his lip signalling us to remain absolutely quite. He was focused onto something. And the next moment even we could get it. Faint distant sound of something biting onto bones could be heard. The mild cracking and grinding sounds were almost one with the flow of water and it was difficult to pinpoint them, but they were there. Occasional low growls also accompanied them. It could be nothing else but a "TIGER".

Safari Guides sharing information during Safari

Initially we thought it came from beneath us, below the bridge. But, later Mr. Ram ji estimated it to be coming from the dense bushes a few meters to our left. There was no way to be sure, because of the guidelines of the National park you just cannot get down from your jeep, move out and say hello  to the Tiger. The only thing we could do was wait for the tiger to come out. In the mean while two other safari jeeps had also joined us. They were also helpless and joined us in this game of "hide and seek". The guide on the safari jeeps conversed among themselves in low hushed voices and signals. I saw Mr. Yadav mischievously gesturing the guide on the other jeep to get down and confirm the location of the tiger. The guide signaled back with a gesture that looked to me like " Marna hay kya!!!". Ram ji answered back with a mocking smile. The guide have an unique brotherhood not by blood but by profession. They rejoice at the company of each other.

Entitled "Munna"

Mr. Munna, the man behind the tale

While we were waiting for the tiger to show up. Ram Yadav narrated an interesting story. "Sir ji, do you know how the legendary tiger "Munna" got his name?". I said I had heard stories about it that he got his name from one of the resident guides. He nodded. He pointed out to a fragile looking short statured  guide standing on the rear end jeep, "That is Munna".  He explained, a few years back while the tiger "Munna" was in his prime had a viscous fight with another tiger. He sustained some serious injuries, including one to his left hind leg. This left him limping for quite some time (Hence derived his nickname "Langda"). Co-incidentally during the same time the guide "Munna" also met with an accident, leaving him limping too. On a certain day during the safari Munna, the guide drove through the same road where the tiger was taking a stroll. In a feat of mockery, other co-guides chuckled out saying,
"woh dekho lagda Munna aa raha hay." 
And hence the name stuck... "Munna". Ever since the legend of "Munna Tiger" has lived on along side his human counterpart.

Dusk in the Meadows

An Evening in Kanha National Park

Hopes fading and heart heavy, alas! we left the place. It was time to bid adieu to the park now. The tired sun was taking a dip beyond the sky line of saal trees and dancing canopies in the late evening summer breeze. Golden dusty whirlwind tailing our safari caravan. For the last possible moment I tried to breath in a little bit of kanha. My head resting back on the railing, my camera casually lying around on the rear seat and my glittering eyes letting in those dying rays of sun.... we drove out. The meadows were vast and open, standing witness to the tales this forest has to offer. Drooping trees lined on either side as if putting on their blankets for the approaching night. Herds of Deer and Sambar clogged together for the dark hours to come, in a hope to stay alive to see the next morning. Langoor monkeys were settled on the trees' high branches, their tails dangling like dazzling carillons (bell-ropes) of a church. The summers' dusk in central India are like a hymn of the dwindling sun casting a spell of enchanting blonde rays on the bare body of the masculine earth. Soul of forest summoned by it's inhabitants stands sentinel to the tides of time. Kanha still remains untouched and unwithered ... a Land of Bygone Era.

Leaving behind this wilderness and a part of my soul with we made through the gate that kept man and animals apart. Law of the jungle will always prevail and people like me will keep coming back on it's beckoning to witness this majestic domain of nature.

I looked back one last time... I saw Munna tiger walking away in it's royal demeanor on the road into the forest, fading away with every step.

"I don't know if I will find you ever again, but be sure I will comeback... to you and Kanha."

A part of my soul resides here now.

The fold of events on this day, 27th March, 2017 were special and will be treasured in my heart forever. Couldn't have a better Birthday gift "Mi Amor, Mi Esposa... Banishree Arindam"

Celebrating my Birthday at Club Mahindra,  Kanha National Park 

 A special thanks to Mr. Ram Kumar Yadav and my dearest "Twinks" 

Meandering into Kipling’s Jungle Book (Part II)

KANHA NATIONAL PARK

With the morning sun came a new day bearing new hope of encountering the majestic one. My heart thrilled and spirits high, I stepped out of my room. It was 4:55 AM. Chill of early summer morning kept rushing through the gentle breeze. We were to meet our safari guide at 5 AM as the safari gates open at 6 AM sharp. We called him up and he instructed us to report at the "Khatia gate", where he was awaiting us.  

The resort staff had prepared a package of breakfast for us which we were to take during the safari. The morning safari takes around 5 hours only, so hunger is not something that was at the back of our minds, but still... I jumped on the front passenger seat with my camera and hat accompanying me. The engine buzzed and we were off. The head light of the car piercing through dimness of the dawn. Trees and bushes kept trailing by as the car zoomed through the silhouettes of the foliage on either side of the road.
Instantly my thoughts drifted away from the present and ventured into the forest..."Somewhere in this forest is the legendary tiger, Munna. May be just a few kilometers away or may be even hidden in some bush near the road that I am currently driving on. May be he was fast asleep now under a large banyan tree by the park, or may be he is patrolling his territory now. May be I would be lucky today to have a glimpse of him or may be he will elude me as he had done in the past occasions." 
It was just Munna and Munna that ruled my straying thoughts but i had already promised myself that I will not be disheartened if ever i couldn't meet him. After all I was in Munna's territory, in the Land of Mowgli, and that itself was an enchanting feeling.

Me, Banishree (My wife) and Twinkle (My Sister-in-law)

In 10 minutes we were at Khatia gate of Kanha national park. Tourists buzz in early morning to have a chance to enter first in the jungle. We were lucky to be the first few in the queue of safari jeeps.

Our Guide - Ram Kumar Yadav

Ram Kumar Yadav

Just as we parked the car, a tall handsome man walked up to us. His attire was that of a safari guide and an army print cap adorned his head. A tag on his right arm sleeve bore the logo of Kanha National Park. Over his left shoulder was loosely hung a dark green sleeveless winter-wear. It was summer already but the morning was still cold with temperature hovering around 12-15 degrees.   He seemed to be a man of strong character. His eyes were ever observant and his mustache branded a "Yadav" style pride. I was skeptical of his profession, to me he seemed to fit into armed forces more than being a safari guide.

In the first few minutes of my conversation only I could make out this man to be an extraordinary jungle enthusiast. Mr. Ram Yadav was a native of this place. He grew up among these forests. The sight and sounds of animals were his lullaby and the park his backyard. He knew all the tigers by name and could pin point most of their location unless they have not made any movements recently. The Park is divided into four zones, Kanha, Kisli, Sarhi and Mukkhi. Kisli being the largest. Ram Yadav ji informed me that Munna had been recently sighted in and around Kanha and Kisli zone. My hopes widened as we were to cover the Kanha zone in our morning safari. 

The sun was now on the horizon, it's rays peeking through the Saal trees... the gate opened. Much awaited journey into Mowgli's courtyard begun.

Safari into the Heart of Kanha

Safari jeeps are generally six seater. My Mother-in-law being old took the passenger seat, My wife and Sister-in-law the middle one and Ram Yadav and me jumped back on the hind elevated seat. The vintage point. Adrenaline was rushing through my veins and imaginations running wild. But my co-passenger, Mr. Yadav was a well composed man. His eyes kept swiveling in all directions. No movement escaped his eyes. A few hundred meters into the park, and we were welcomed by a herd of Gaurs (Indian Bisons) grazing beside the road. The males are lager with huge curved horns, massive neck and shoulder muscles that provide them with brutal strength. But in the calm of the morning they were just gentle giants. Mr. Yadav cautioned us not to be deceived by their soberness, they are highly territorial at times and recently had charged a safari jeep thrashing it away like a tin can. Leaving the beasts to their own business we moved on.


 Kisli zone guest house is the first stop during the safari, which is just a couple of kilometers from the Khatia gate entrance. Mr. Yadav persisted on not delaying by having a halt, so we moved on. He was keen not to miss the chance of a first tiger sighting as they are quite active during this time of the day. Insisting the driver to rush on, he kept a vigil eye on the dusty road for pug marks. Even I enthusiastically followed him but my tracking skills were no match to Mr. Yadav's.

The view of an early morning safari as you enter into the Kanha forest

The sight that greeted us as we ventured into the Jungle's edge left me awestruck. The golden rays of the rising sun dancing on the canopy of the forest casting an eternal radiance. The silhouettes of the forest background taking shapes when light screened through them. The muddy path that tunneled into the towering trees was light like a golden carpet... Imprinted into my soul forever.

A Family of Jackals

As we entered into the forest, animal activity  became more evident. Mr. Yadav pointed out at a direction to my right and called out "Indian Golden Jackal". I strained my neck and adjusted my pupils to have a view... and yes there they were, a family of Jackals playfully indulged. Raising my camera I zoomed in to have a snap. I captured the moment in a jolly click.

A female Hard Ground Sambar Deer

We took a sharp left from where the dense Saal forest  emerged and headed on to Kanha zone of the park. At distance a pair of Hard-ground Sambar deer were basking in the glow of the early morning sun only their antlers peeping out of the tall grass. Scattered Spotted deer population could be seen grazing in the vast open meadows. Fawns played around their mothers, while some adult deers with head held high kept an eye for predators. After a few minutes our vehicle was moving through ravines cut through small rocky elevated terrains that formed tiny gorges. At the edge of one such gorge i could make out some dark shapes moving. I turned to Mr. Yadav for identification, he simply told me that they were wild Boars with out even bothering to look have a look. To my surprise, they were indeed wild boars. It was only "Tigers" for Mr. Yadav, other animals were just chorus of the opera for him. He used to say, "Sir ji, hum aapko tiger ki pakka sighting karaenge." But even he knew that it was completely a matter of luck.

The terrain started to transform as we made our way towards Parsatola. Road ascended into rocky uphills winding all along the way. The dusty roads were covered with safari jeep tracks from the day before evening safari. Among them were faint marks of animals footstep. Suddenly, Mr. Yadav stopped the jeep, leaning on the railing he pointed out onto the road "Pugmarks". Faint but visible to eyes were a trailing line of foot marks of a large cat... It was a male Tiger's and was quite fresh. According to Mr. Yadav it was made just a few hours ago, early dawn. He slowly traced the line on the left flank of the road where the tiger had walked for a few meters and then sat in the middle of road before walking on. The forest and animal signs were like an open book for Ram Yadav. He could read the events out as if he was present there when it occured. He told us that the tiger came out of the bush on the left side of the road walked for around fifty meters, stopped and sat down on the road for a brief moment and then walked ahead a few steps before disappearing into the bushes. The pug marks narrated exactly the similar story. For a moment I felt Mr. Yadav was lost in thoughts as he silently stared ahead into the open road. But then with a jerk he jumped up and asked the driver to slowly drive the vehicle a little ahead. He bent down again on the railing and called out, "Sir ji, there was even a leopard here before the tiger came across." He pointed out to set of parallel laid pugmarks of a smaller dimensions to that of the tiger. These were a little faded suggesting that it might be of late night. A Curse escaped my lips, we had missed the two big cats of Indian sub-continent by a few hours.    

Following the tracks our vehicle moved along the jungle roads for about a few kilometers. The sun had now gone up in the sky warming the morning with it's rays. The sunlight screening through the tree is a landmark sight in the Kanha's forest. It's enchanting landscape is a paradise for professional photographers. Heading towards "Mundi dadar", we kept an eye around. On the right were tall trees

A Spotted Deer skipping away

while on the left small meadows with streams occasionally cutting through. We climbed a small hill and turned sharp right on our descend. While the jeep was turning Mr. Yadav jumped up from his seat and with a focus of a stalking tiger on his face he listened to something intently in a direction beyond the meadows. He signaled the driver to stop, and gently whispered "Alarm call" . Alarm calls are a series of particular sound produced by deers and monkeys when they spot a predator. Faint sound of deers could be heard but it felt like it was getting closer and closer. Mr. Yadav estimated that it was coming from around hundred meters away and whoever the predators was is moving straight in our direction. Our hearts skipped a beat on the possible encounter with a Tiger. I could imagine a big male tiger coming  into view from the dense vegetation at the edge of the meadows. A smile stretched across my face. Our eyes were fixed in the direction that Mr. Ram Yadav pointed out. To our dismay slowly the alarm calls faded. We waited for quite a long time looking in all directions if we could make out what was happening. Finally after a long stretch of time when the calls had fallen dead silent, Yadav ji concluded that either the Tiger has sat down somewhere hidden away from the eyes of it's prey or it has crossed the road and ventured into the other side of the jungle. His theory was confirmed as we moved ahead, we could see fresh tiger's track crossing the road just fifty meters from where we waited. We had missed it by a whisker's length.

The Landmark "Shravan Tal"

We decided to take a break as it was already 9:30 AM and the sun was beating down now. Navigating our way to Kanha camp as we moved, we came across the famous "Sharvan Tal". Made popular by the mythological event when king Dashrath mistakenly shot an arrow at the young boy shravan, who was then filling water from the pond to quench the thirst of his blind parents. Later, the king was cursed by the blind old couple and during his last moments died thriving for a glance of his beloved son Ram whom he had sent away for "Vanbas". A stony engraved landmark reminds us of the tale.

A halo of Deer Antlers

 The Kanha camp is located in the heart of kanha zone, an open unprotected area with tall trees casting their shades on the settlement below.  There are refreshment rooms, a few official two room buildings, and the Kanha Museum. The museum houses some heritage artifacts, endemic animal models and  preserved skeleton of certain other animals. Among all these the only thing that captured my eyes was the tabloid sculpture proudly ornamenting the camp. It is a marbled structure engraved "KANHA NATIONAL PARK" with a halo of 40,000 deer antlers arching tall over it. A sight to behold.

Safari Guides in the midst of their jolly conversation

It also happens to be the rendezvous point for the safari guides and forest guards. They sit around causally sipping out some tea, chuckling out at jokes cracked at each other. They bring news of the early morning sightings and events of the morning's proceedings. It's like the information center of the jungle's reporters. Mr. Ram Yadav also joined in with the group. He is a highly respected individual among the lot. I looked at the them and the only word that my mind relayed was "RESPECT". These guys are the people who has kept the wildlife and it's legacy alive. They bring to us a mesmerizing world of animals and their lives that is beyond the perception of our corrupt minds. I stayed there listening to their talks for a brief moment. To me it felt like the hymn of t
he forest as it's people were narrating it's own tale. This moment will last for ever in our heart and soul.    

The rest of the safari was not so eventful. We had an encounter with a Sloth bear. It was just a few meters away from our vehicle but out of our vision hidden in the bushes. Patience is a vital attire for wildlife enthusiasts and photographers. Ram ji was a veteran in this art. He made us patiently wait for almost an hour for the bear to come out into the open at the fringe of the bush. But dear Mr. Bear was busy munching on his termite's mount and had no intention of showing up. Scratching sounds as the bear's claws hit the ground could be heard with occasional movement and bustling of vegetation. That was all, no sighting. Ram ji explained us how bears can casually stick around a place where they find food for a long time, leisurely spent almost the whole day there.

An elegantly posing Peacock

As we drove on our adrenaline hype faded away with every roll of the wheels. Herds of Spotted deers, scattered populations of Sambar, a few bird species like the Indian Roller, crested Eagle, Greater Indian Owl, Vultures and some splendidly posing Peafowls... was all that we could see. It was time now and the sun was almost overhead and we had to rush out as the park gates closed at 11 AM.



Disappointment weighing high we left the park. But it was not all over... we still had an Evening safari. Waving the Park and it's inhabitants goodbye for now our vehicle strode away along with the convey of safari jeeps that had entered the park that morning. 27th March 2017.

Adieu to Kanha National Park for the morning