Corbett's Land of Tigers (Part II)

Bijrani zone is one of the most sort after zones, second to Dhikala. While it's natural beauty mesmerizes ones eyes, it's wildlife diversity lures wildlife enthusiasts across the world. It's picturesque landscape is ornate with vast expanse of 'Chaurs' grassland where herds of chittal (Axis axis) and sambar (Rusa unicolor) graze placidly drifting in and out of the grass. The dense sal (Shorea robusta) forests harbor predators and prey with equal indulge. Among the woods while the herbivores cherish on the lush foliage, the dancing light and shade provides concealment to the ambushing predators. By the way of nature both flourish. And every safari ride into these lands is like a Christmas present, you never know what might pop up at the next turn. Well... everyone hopes that to be a tiger, but the lord of the jungle always makes his appearance on his own accords. 

Into Bijrani

At Bijrani - ready for the wild

 Afternoon sun was beating down on us as our gypsy glided into the wilderness, yet the touch of it felt cool on our skin. The dense foliage gave way to open grassland after twenty minutes into the safari. Until now no animal had crossed the road or any bird had flown by. The silence of the forest was only scattered by the screeching of our vehicle  tyres on the graveled path and the monotonous rehearsed words of Mr. Jagdish Negi ji (our guide) who had made himself quite comfortable on the front seat. Wrinkles on his forehead and cheeks, deep set eyes with furry brows overcasting them hinted of him spending a considerable time of his life in these forests. His knowledge of its flora and fauna was sizeable. His potbelly bounced whenever the vehicle took a bump over the rocks. He would then involuntarily rearrange himself in the crumped space of the rugged seat and continue with his narration. 

The Spotted deer stag

His dozy voice crawled through, "Sir, you will find Spotted deer, sambar deer, barking deer in this zone commonly... if lucky you can spot Elephants around the grassland and along the river. At the terminal point of the safari we will stop at the watch tower from which you can have a wonderful view of the river and grassland."

"And Tigers?", I poked in. 

Instead of answering, he momentarily glanced to the right, into the bushes and announced raising a finger in that direction, "Chittal". And there were the first animals of the day, a pair of Spotted deer (Axis axis) grazing just few feet away. One of them raised his head while our vehicle passed by. It was stag with a magnificent set of antlers which could seduce the most ravishing doe. He stood proud, head raised, snout high, commanding posture... the subtle grass in his mouth was the only dent of a perfect picture. Now, who says only tigers can be majestic!

Bijrani Forest Guest House

There were already many gypsies lined up at the Bijrani rest house when we drove in. The campus houses a forest guest house constructed back in 1928 like a British "dak bunglow', few staff quarters lining the edges and an elephant camp that shelters two forest department elephants and a calf. Electric fencing though secures the yard, yet I feared wild animals could still sneak in during the dark hours. A part of me wondered what it would feel like staying here at night - the sounds of the jungle, darkness veiling animals who lurked just few yards away and a sense of diminution as a human would acknowledge in the vastness of the Indian wild. A fantasy I still harbor in my bosom. After a quick snack we were back on the dirt road. 

October, the winter was just rolling in as one could feel the chill of the mountain gale. Sailing through the wind came the call of a Brown fish owl (Bubo zeylonensis) - "too-whoo -hoo". Perched somewhere in the high canopy beneath the hillock on the right, he seemed to greet us. Or perhaps it was to intimidate its prey. A sound I believe can give you nightmares when heard in the darkness of a night. Yet, somehow to me it was like a chime resonating from the heart of Corbett's wilderness. Squinting my eyes I scanned the canopy with my binoculars to have a glimpse of it. After several minutes of intense search, my eyes stared to ache and I gave up. Its large speckled brown body seemed to have consolidated with the dark brown bark of the trees. Camouflage, that's the way of nature. I remember elders in our village's saying, "Animals are the children of the forest whom she holds dear to her bosom, shielding them from any preying eyes.". I believe it now.

Grunting at my failure to spot the owl I urged Negi ji to drive on. His consoling words provided some relief though at heart I wished I could see it- "Don't be disheartened Sir. You might spot some Griffon vultures (Gyps himalyayensis) near the riverbed. They are even larger than the Fish owl."

Meeting the Elephants

The river bed was quite dry with a petite stream dancing down among the rocks. Tall elephant grass also called Napier grass (Pennisetum purpureum) fanned out long to the farthest corner our eyes could see. A sense of claustrophobia set in as our vehicle infiltrated through them on the way to the river bed. While we were trying to cope with the surrounding walls of green, a sudden burst of musky-earthly smell took us by surprise. And we heard them before we could see them, the gentle rumble of their deep throated declaration of their presence was evident to our ears. We stopped by. I climbed up on the back seat and up the railing to get a better view to which Mr. Negi did not protest. He had sank down in his seat with drowsy eyes, his belly rumbling in synchrony with the elephants' grumble. A little rustle in the grass some yards to our left and a minute bulge of the greyish hump was all that I could see. Amazing it is to note that how such a huge animal silently disappears among these foliage. Ahhh... Elephant grass. Their padded feet muffled any sound while they walked. Their gigantic frame moved like a shadow among the blades of tall grass. The Elephants (Elephas maximus indicus)  seemed to be moving towards the river and that's where we headed to before they got there. 

The elephant herd crossing the river

We parked the gypsy right on the edge of the dirt road near the river front. With my camera ready, I was back on the top of the gypsy railings. And we didn't had to wait long. First it was the matriarch who made her appearance. Swinging gently like a leaf in the breeze and the trunk held loose she gracefully made her approach to the river. Two calves and seven cows( Female elephants) followed her lead. The silhouettes of the pachyderms streaked across the Teria landscape was a surreal sight. It felt like a photograph from distant past when these pachyderms' ancestors, Stegodont ganesha would have crossed these rivers in a similar demeanor. The young calves were a little brattish and often ventured away from the herd. A shrill trumpet from their mothers was enough to send them running back to the shelter of their mothers' underbelly. We watched this little herd till the last of them vanished into the tall grass on the opposite bank. This encounter is still sketched bright and clear in my heart - my first tryst with the gentle giants of the Indian jungles. 

The Watchtower

The Watch tower and the grasslands

The watchtower stood at the end of the trail, footed at the edge of the forest and overlooking the vast grassland. True to his words, Mr. Negi did manage to get us there before other gypsies arrived. From the elevated platform of watchtower the view was one to behold. The elephant grass glowed golden in the slanting rays of the sun, the pools of water glittered and the rocks on the river bed emerged like a disoriented pebbled path. The trees beyond the grassland formed a formidable wall of dark green, while amongst them hillocks popped up here and there. The horizon seemed multilayered with overlapping mountainous silhouettes. Each getting lighter at the farther end to finally merge with the sky beyond. Somewhere beyond them lied the mighty Himalayas, out of reach of our paltry vision. Someday I wished to visit them as well. Mr. Negi said, often tigers dragged their prey into these tall grass to have an uninterrupted meal. Lucky if we might be, we might sight one as two days back a tigress had made a sambar deer kill on the right bank some hundred yards from the watchtower. I was quite skeptical of a sighting though, for one my luck is not a strong attribute of mine and besides sighting a tiger in the grass where elephants disappear without a trace was next to impossible. Twenty minutes after ascending the tower we climbed down with no animal sighting at all - not even a deer.   

Dance of the Barking Deer

The forest was far too silent for a late winter afternoon. On a typical day it would have been echoing with chirping of returning birds and calls of animals. Mr. Negi also raised his concern. "Bhai, sab gaye kahan?" - he muttered under his breath. We stopped by and put our ears to use for any call or any rustle among the leaves. Time ticked by and nothing changed, just silence aided by a clement breeze that came in from the river. 

Finally Mr. Negi's patience also gave out, "Chalo bhai, nikalte hain waqt ho chala hay.". Not a moment had passed after the driver ignited the engine, two muntjacs (Munitacus muntjac)  came rushing from the forest. Passing right in front of our gypsy vanished into the bushes on the left. 

The Barking deer pair

A moment later they rushed back, now form the rear of the vehicle and vanished to the right. It felt like flashes of reddish-brown zapping around our vehicle like lighting on a stormy sky. We waited, for we knew they would show again. After a brief period of time, crackling of the leaves near the undergrowth confirmed our prophecy. On this occasion the walk was more elegant, cautious and lacked the hurriedness. Appearing from the bushes was a doe(female). Close on her heels was a bulk(male) in his prime. He sniffed the rear of the doe, tongue protruding and head slightly raised, he seemed lost in a realm of delirious love. Struck by cupid, undoubtedly. The doe however took her own time to flaunt. With a raised tail which flashed a speck of white, she walked a few steps and stopped to lure the bulk to follow. With hormones taking over, the thick reddish fur of the bulk's winter coat flared with the sensuality. His antlers half covered with fur bent backwards resembling a feathery crown. The trademark canine of this unique deer peered through the upper lips shining like ivory. Attempts of seduction by the doe were promptly answered by the bulk. There seemed to be no hurry and both went on with their own pace. We stood audience. 

"Yeh raha aapka bijayta.", announced Mr. Negi. Apparently he explained the ordeal - the previous chasing around we witnessed was a fight for the lady among two bulks. The victorious male had chased away his adversary and now was cherishing his well acclaimed prize. We silently watched the dance of the two wild lovers that has been a routine drama in this wilderness for time immemorable. Amidst this we failed to acknowledge the sun that was going down on the far west horizon. Soon it became too dark to see the reddish antelopes among the dense bushes. Leaving the barking deer in their attempt at a new generation we rode off into the golden dust.

The Last Souvenir 

All safaris into the wild do not promise you a guaranteed sighting of the king of the jungle. Mostly it's like a drive into the forest with an unyielding venture. Yet, what you truly seek in the forest defines if that trip was worth it. I will not deny the fact that our prime reason for being in Corbett was tigers and tigers only, yet I also announce that memories that I will be taking away from this land are far more precious than I ever imagined. No Tigers in this Corbett's trip - that is what we had accepted. The sun had already bade its adieu for the day and the air was getting cold. The little light that lit the sky and the forest was mere ruminants of the fading sun. Our gypsy had just entered the river bed on the far end when the driver stopped. He bend over his driver's window and starred into the mud next to the vehicles. Curiously, we bent over the ledge to see what he was intensely looking at. 

The Tiger's pugmark

"Tiger" - he said.

And there on the wet mud lay the pugmark of a tiger staring back at us. 

"I am here.", it promulgated.

"I will be back for ya." - I replied. 

 

DISCLAIMER - The cover picture is courtesy of  Mr. Rahul Rao. And three other pictures in the article also belong to different photographers, on which I do not lay claim. They rightfully belong to the respective owners. 

Corbett's Land of Tigers (Part 1)

 As a child stories of the wild fascinated me. For a tiny throbbing heart the jungles were enigmatic lands shrouded in mist and mystic of creature that filled it with dread and amazement. Cuddled between the cozy arms of my grandfather as I slept peacefully, my childhood dreams were often flooded with visions of the dark forests piercing through which moon-white glazing teeth would emerge followed by the majestic face of a striped golden beast... Tiger. Afraid I was not but spell bound indeed I was. 

 

Man eaters of Kumaon

Visits to the book store near the government bus-stop with my grandfather every evening was customary, where he would chat long with his childhood friend "Dukan Baba" (as I called him, the owner of the book store), leaving this curious child to wonder into the labyrinth of numerous stacked books. The stacks were far taller than a six year old child and my bewildered gaze would scan them like a kid on a street scanning the city skyscrapers. Scanning lane by lane my eyes always would rest on a particular book... "Man eaters of Kumaon - Jim Corbett". Do tigers really eat humans? How big can this beast be to take away a man? How do people live in villages in the jungles when they know a tiger would take them? Curiosity danced wild in my mind. Those clinking coins in my pocket, a sum total of one rupee fifty paise were not enough to get me the book. And even I could not muster courage to ask my grandfather to buy me that. My eyes fixed on the cover of the book where an Englishman with a raise rifle faced fearlessly to a pouncing tiger, my mind raced to decided between wanting and sacrifice. 

Moments later I came to my grandfather jumping with joy and we headed back home as the night had fallen. That day, when the shutter of the bookshop shut down one book was missing from it's shelves... that one book lay secretly hidden beneath my pillow as I slept on it, it's stories seeping into my dreams. My lust for Jim Corbett and tigers had won... and one sin added to my life, I had stolen that book. This is how I was introduced to "JIM CORBETT".

To Jim Corbett Finally

Nineteen years later I was aboard a train to Delhi with two of my friends, Ashis and Sai to visit the land whose tales had framed my perception of Indian tigers and it's forests. Corbett's land of tigers... Jim Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand. Early winter chill floated in the heavy Delhi air when we got down of one train at Delhi Railway station to board another standing three platforms away. With no time for dinner we just grabbed a few sandwiches from the adjoining food-stall and got on the train that would take us to Ramnagar. From there we were to take a cab to Nainital and then it would drop us up at Corbett. Typical Indian 3 tier railway compartments are just enough to accommodate six not very spacious though. Upper berth is of my liking and in no time I was up there, with a book in hand, blanket on and secluded from the hustle-bustle below. I don't remember when I slid away into deep slumber that night but I do recall of my state of delirium that I went to bed with. 

On the way to Corbett National Park

The next dawn found me with dazzling eyes standing at the gate of the train, honking through the abeyant mist and night bathed fields of Terai village outskirts. We had arrived at the foothills of the legendary Kumaon and Garhwal. The sun had not made an appearance when we set foot at Ramnagar and the over hanging digital platform clock flashed  4:25 AM. We still had time to freshen up before our cab stopped by at around 5 AM. A couple of hours later we were enroute Nainital, a short stop there and then our little cab was winding through the hilly slopes of Ringora to Wild Crest Resort, Dhikuli. 

Lost in memories of Corbett's tales

In the Himalayan foothills night descends swiftly, the chill settling in like a silent assassin. Wild Crest Resort is nestled in the dense forested buffer area of Corbett national park. Though modern amenities make up for the comfort but the primitiveness of the ancient wilderness around is all engulfing. At sun down I made my way to the rooftop to breath in some forest charm laden air. The land was all new for me, and all different from the childhood dreamy visions of mine where Corbett followed and shot Man-eaters. The hills sloped in from all side, tall alpine trees looming over like sentinel spirits, mountain tops carved intricate jagged pattern on the purple skyline and calls of the wild echoed all around. Bright lights of the beautiful resort cottages stood in strong contrast with the untamed nature. It felt unreal, even to this day that moment seems to me like a dream not lived... yet I had. Time ticked by as I lost myself to the land ... how long I do not remember. It's when the birds had gone silent and night creatures announced they presence I knew it was time to withdraw. I need to sleep now, tomorrow I will be venturing into the magical world of Corbett whose roots stretches back into the past and it's spell has branched deep into the present. 

Wild Crest Resort at sundown

The Jackal Encounter

The jackal staring back at me 

The crescent moon was still dozy on the horizon when I wok at dawn. With tumbling steps as I made for the door, my hazy vision was still trying to make out objects around. Unlocking the door knob I stepped out to find a dog cuddled on our doormat. On seeing me it raised it's head in alarm and then in a flash it jumped up and ran away to the far side of the courtyard. It paused beneath the garden lamp shade to glance back at me once... Silvery back, thick bushy tail, sharp pointed ears... "Oh God!!! That's a jackal", I spoke out loud. She stood there like telling me through her glance, "You stupid humans always scare the lights out of us." It turned on it's heels and the hopped away into the fading darkness. I called up the reception to tell them that there is a Jackal in the resort. 

And a sleepy voice on the other side of receiver told me, "Koi darr nahi Saab ji, Siyar, Hiran, Langoor aate jaate rahte hain resort mein. Kuch nahi karenge." (Nothing to fear Sir, jackals, deer, langoor frquently come into the resort. They won't harm.)

I fired back, "Toh phir Tiger, Leopard bhi toh aa sakte hain." (Then tigers, leopards might also come)

The replay came, "Haan aa toh sakte hain, lekin aaj tak aaye nahi." (Yes they can, but haven't come ever)

And that was the end of the conversation. At length acknowledgment set in that I was amidst true wilderness of Corbett's tales. 

Stuck in the Jungle

The Resort staff had already arranged for an open gypsy to drop me at the safari booking office at Ramnagar as we had not made any safari booking prior and had to book it on spot for which there is generally a long queue. So, we had to leave early to acquire one. Shortly after the jackal encounter I was at the reception when the pick up gypsy drove in. The back seat was already occupied by two kids aging around seven - eight, before I could inquire the Manager informed me these Delhi School kids would also be accompanying me as they had spot booking to make for their classmates, 23 in all. With a long sigh I jumped on to the front seat. 

Ten minutes later we were stuck in the middle of the jungle on our way to Ramnagar as the gypsy engine had failed. The silence of the forest was shattered by the over joyed gamboling kids who paid no heed to the constant request of the driver to keep calm as we were in the elephant corridor of the park. Not to mention my fear going pitches high as I was aware how devastating a rampaging elephant herd can be. The driver had already called up for a back up gypsy from the resort and it was not until the orange glow of the sun filled the horizon that it showed up. 

Lunch after a long day wait at the booking office

We reached  safari booking office at 6:20 AM, obtained a front position in the queue. But what the Manager failed to inform me was that the booking counter opened at 11:00 AM. The queue grew long behind us with each passing hour as did the paper cups of tea that I had consumed during the wait which the driver had generously brought for me at regular intervals. With the Safari permit in hand I reached the resort at 12 noon. I was famished and red-eyed. A dip in the pool followed by a excellently dainty lunch was that it took to get life back into me.

The Jungle Safari 

Wading into Jim's Tiger land - safari ride

We had obtained a safari permit for the Bijrani zone of the park, entry point being at the Amdanda gate we had to make an early start from the resort that afternoon. The open gypsy was a four seater and hood-less, thus an open view we could cherish. I duly took my place on the raised back seat, that I believed would give a better opportunity to view animals to long distances. The engine roared, geared on and hit the jungle road in no time. Cool jungle breeze gushing past my face had a lullaby effect and my eyes felt drowsy drifting me into a dreamland where I followed Jim Corbett as he strolled through the Kumaon wilderness in search of man-eaters. Today seemed different, Jim was not alert and on tiptoes as always instead he hummed gently, melodiously on hill folk songs as he walked on a pugdandee (game track) leading deep into the forest. Occasionally he would pause looking up at the canopies where the birds chirped and sang filled with joie de vivre (Joy of life). Smile that stretched across his face was a testimony of the extra-ordinary being he was whose heart was full of compassion and appreciation for the living though his rifle that he carried on his shoulders vowed to take many. Killing tigers was not something he rejoiced, it was the need to save human lives that made him take up his rifle. "Tigers are large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage", he believed. With thoughts of him running wild in my mind, we had reached the Amdanda gate. The gypsy steered in, the village out-huts faded away into the trailing dust of the vehicle and dense foliage materialized ahead as we drove on... following Jim into his world of bundu eutopia. 

Corbett National Park's History

Jim with his Rigby rifle in the Kumaon foothills 

Established in 1936 during the British Raj it was christened as Hailey National Park (after the name of then Governor of United Provinces William M. Hailey). Post independence, in 1956 it was renamed Jim Corbett National Park after Kumaon's beloved hunter turned conservationist Edward James Corbett, whom the people across the land knew as "Carpet sahib". A paramount part of his life during early twentieth century, he spent purging the inhabitants of  Kumaon and Garhwal of dreaded man-eating tigers and leopards. His triumphant success in bring down the Man-eating leopard of Rudraprayag and Champawat tigress brought him acclaimed fame across the provinces and beyond the seas. Ensuing to write his thrilling encounters with the varmint felines of Himalayan foothills who had instigated a liking for human flesh, once he had put down his smocking barreled shooting iron... he offered a kaleidoscopic view of the life and wildlife of breathtaking ancient land Kumaon and Garhwal. The last of his work "The tree tops" he presented to the world days before his passing. But even from the foreign land of Kenya, where he breathed his last the fragrance of his love for the Kumaoni lands disseminated into the hearts and soul of readers far and away. Cherishing his love for these forests, the wildlife, it's people and this hill adorned land as a whole, stands as a cenotaph  ... The Corbett National Park.

Consummation: 

I dare not step foot with pride here, instead humble admiration should I bear on my sleeves... I hope to find the fearless soul of Jim somewhere among these woodlands awaiting me to take back into my childhood dreamland of Indian jungles... into the land of Corbett where he hunted the "Man eaters of Kumaon."

Our gypsy strolled deep into forest now, sun still a few paces up the horizon but enough for us to ogle at the dark forests and it's denizens.And as Jim would have said it, "Ok then mates... Meet you on the other side."

Into the wilder-land of Jim Corbett

DISCLAIMER:

I do not claim ownership to some of the pictures in the article. They respectfully below to their rightful owners. This is just for imaginative understanding of the readers. I hope to have your support and acceptance of my disclaimant. 

Hymns of the Mountains – Tsomgo Lake and Nathula Pass (Part 4)

The snow felt soft beneath my feet and the air chilling. I walked swiftly, briskly among the white canvas of snowy terrain. The breath that escaped my lips turned smoky as they were touched by the cold air. My hands felt numb, my streaming blood inefficient to provide warmth any more. But, somehow in this hostile environment I felt relieved. It felt like I had been graced with the world of my fortuitous dream. Shrill ringing alarm pierced my ears, with it my dream was gone. "Pooofs". I opened my eyes to the clock staring at me, just having struck 4:30 AM. "Early", I thought but then a long day awaited and "early" was the need of the hour. Pulling away my warm blanket I climbed down my bed, tapping on my friends on the beds nearby I made my way to freshen up.

In an hour's time we were at the hotel's lobby waiting for our cab for the pick up. Five minutes later we had already boarded the cab and were on the way to the registration office. "Today's destination - Nathula Pass - Indo-China Border." The feeling that I will be standing at the edge of my country enthralled me. One more hour passed by at the office to get the permits. At around six our cruiser- cab was climbing up the hilly slopes ... we were on our way to Nathula now.

En-route Nathula 

On the way to Nathula

Convoluting roads marked a steep climb on the mountains' face, specks of settlements dotted the landscape. Rolling down my window glass I gazed up to the sky, amazed... "I have never seen such a blue sky!" The air felt light and fresh, the early morning sun's rays soft on the skin. Nathula is 53 kilometers uphill east of Gangtok, Sikkim's capital. It takes some 3-4 hours to reach there due to the harsh terrain and cliff side roads. 

We were moving early to avoid mountain traffic. You would know better if you have ever been through a mountain road how treacherous and time consuming it is when you are stuck in a mountain traffic for hours. But for now we were enjoying the open roads. A few kilometers from Gangtok we were asked to stop at the first Military outpost for I.D. verification. It was done in a couple of minutes. 

Landslide right infront of our eyes

The roads then became rugged, worn off at places. From the distance I could see large boulders and land slipping down... Landslides. As we approached a turn a large puff of dust mushroomed ahead on the road, our cab jolted to a stop. Slowly we moved ahead with caution, huge chunk of rocks were rolling down the hill sweeping out tree along with them. It was a terrifying experience, when you know any rolling rock can crash into your car or knock it off the hillside. But we dared to moved on.

The car rocked  side to side as if dancing like a child mounting a hilly incline. Oxygen got scarce, breathing a little difficult now. The terrain began to appear more rocky merging up into the skies. Sikkimese songs playing on the audio player of the cab had a different vibe to it. Melodious as it was, calming and relaxing all the same. After some time that seemed long enough we reached a small settlement called "Kyangnolsa". Though not very tired, still refreshment was necessary. We got out of the car to visit a nearby cafe...smell of hot tea felt inviting. 

Sipping hot Tea sitting beside a Bokhari.

The cafe was a shop cum cafe with warm clothes displayed in the room present beside a kitchen that   brewed hot tea along with omelets and maggi noodles. Hew... "Maggi" - it's a life saving staple food here high up in these mountains. Sitting besides the Bokhari (a traditional wood burning stove that keeps the house warm) we enjoyed our hot cups of tea for a brief moment. That tea warmed us from within, giving us strength and hope to move on in this bone chilling cold.

After some refreshment we continued on our journey. The mountains ahead appeared white with snow covered peaks. The serpentine road, growing steeper with every turn. To our relief we had been already warned about the cold weather at Nathula by our hotel staff at Gangtok the previous night.
Mr. Anil, at the reception counter warned us during a casual talk, "Sabji, Nathula mein bahut thand. garam kapra leke jana."
Me: " Kitni thand hay? Barf padti hay kya?"
Mr. Anil: "Haan ji. Do din pehle barf gira tha."
And wisely we wore thick jackets, caps and gloves the next morning or else it would have been tough for us to reach our destination. 

Gum-booted 

Travelling in the mountains is an experience that cannot be described in words but then this adventure also comes with it's own risks. Anyway, for the moment I kept looking out of the rolled up window side glass and soaked in the raw beauty of these massifs. The next stop we made was near "Changu Lake"(Local name) or more officially called the "Tsomgo Lake". It is also one of the most popular tourist spot but we decided to explore it on our way back. Here we had to rent some gumboots, because our shoes would be of no use in the snow. There are small shops here that serve maggi and alcohol(A necessity to keep warm in these parts). One can also rent winter wears and gumboots here. Finally dressed for the occasion we marched on.

Sikkim Scouts

On our way we came across many army camps. Being the international border and relation between India and China not that friendly in the past, this area is highly militarized. Different regiments of personnel have been posted here, the most famous being the "Gorkha" regiment, known for their fighting spirit and resilience. These men deserve respect, they work in such hostile conditions day in and night out where it is difficult for us to even thrive for a couple of hours. "Jai Jawan".

Nathula was just a few kilometers away when snow flakes appeared on our cab's wind-shield. My joy had no bounds, it was the first time that I was experiencing snowfall... I still remember how elated I felt that moment. These white tiny petals of ice showered down with consistent intensity. Our cab stopped a kilometer away from the Nathula war memorial, which now was visible at the hill top beneath the red roofed Army office. I sprinted out as the cab screeched to a stop, running out with open arms to embrace the snow. Smile stretched ear to ear as I realized my early morning dream was unfolding true infront of my very eyes.

Nathula lies at an altitude of 4300 m above the sea level and forms a part of the ancient silk-route that connected Tibet to the Bengal plains. In 1962 Nathula witnessed a heavy artillery skirmish between the armies of the two nations - Sino-Indian War. Following this the pass was closed for almost 40 years. With the initiative of the then Prime minister Mr. Atal Bihari Vajpayee(2003), the relations between the two countries improved leading to opening of the pass in 2006. And as of date the line of fire at Nathula has ceased to a peaceful retreat. Tourists throng this place year round, indeed among some strict security measures.  We had to put back our cameras in our bags as photography beyond the parking lot was not permitted. So, the last photo I took was from the parking area only.

It was one kilometer walk to base of the Nathula post. On reaching the base, we paid homage to our brave soldiers at the Indian War Memorial present over there. A plight of stairs took us straight to the Indian border edge, beyond which the land is foreign. I stood there a couple of minutes imagining what this place must have witnessed, the old traders ambling through with goods, the wars between people on both sides, Buddhist pilgrims crossing national borders in search of faith and on occasions like today tourists that flung to admire this place. I wish I could have had a little more time to spare, a life more to spare I would have dedicated it to this land and it's causes. Places like these ignite that dormant patriotism in you but then it is always there I recalled. Snow flakes now showered copiously and it would be difficult to return if this escalated. So, with heavy hearts we had bid our adieus to Nathula and head back.

Playing in the snow

Once back on the road, the skies profoundly started pouring down snow. Visibility was now mere 5 meters. Condition for driving was unfavorable, with no other choice left we had to stop. The sky appeared dark, white snow screening out everything you could put your eyes on.  I remember talking to myself if it safe to get out of the car in such heavy snowfall, but my adventurous better-half of consciousness was inclined to give it a shot. And I obliged. We headed out into the open snow, laughing joyfully, running, splashing snow at each other, rolling down and living every bit of it. That moment is encarved deep in my treasure of memories now.

Baba Harbhajan Singh's Temple

Baba Harbhajan Singh's shrine

Acts of valor, legendary personas and events are always folklored in many battle ravaged lands. Nathula is no exception. The tale of Baba Harbhajan Singh and his legacy is one to behold. Young Harbhajan Singh was posted here in 1968, a time when the two nations had been in battles for quite a couple of years now.  He died during a supply transfer mission, buried in glacial ice. It is believed that Harbhajan Singh guards his motherland and his fellow-mates even after death. Surprisingly no military causalities have occurred in the area after his demise. He is so revered in this part of the world that people and army personnel have built a temple in his honor. Even at the flag meetings at Nathula, a chair is left empty with respect to him. He received allotted salary and promotions till his retirement post-martyrdom. A berth is reserved once a year in a train from New Jalpaiguri to Kuka, Punjab(his resident village), to mark is yearly home visit. 

Mr. Singh narrating his story 

Harbhajan Singh was awarded the title of "Baba" after the mass contemplated him to be a holy soul who safeguards the life of his followers. Many stories float around of how Baba Harbhajan Singh saved lives in these mountains years after his death. Locals believe his soul still roams these borders and his death could not cease him from commencing his duty. One such story was narrated to us by  First Lieutenant Harpal Singh, who and his company had lost sense of direction in a snow-storm during regular petrol. He explained how the silhouette of a man dressed in uniform of 1960's guided them to the safety of their camp. He acclaimed that Baba Harbhajan Singh saved his life that very day. Sometimes, you accept and fail to accept at the same time, some events and occurrences. And your logical mind questions, but is laid silent by the strong belief of a mass. Baba Harbhajan Singh, is one such anomaly. Whatever the truth be, but this man deserves immense respect. We paid a visit to his shrine and listened long to his folklore. A couple hours later, though we had moved on from that place my heart lingered back time and again.

Tsomgo Lake

some amazing moments with our Jawans

On our way down we met some Army personnel and even they rode with us for a few kilometers to the next outpost. We struck a hearty conversation. Life here is difficult but then what's the charm of it with no challenges, they stated. Tourists can be a little irritating a times, as they know not to how  act at places with high securities. Time and again the jawans would stop the car, get down to tell the tourists not to stop at restricted area for photographs. Duty ridden, safety of the nation and it's citizens is the prime objective of these jawans. Respect, again. They dropped off just before we reached Tsomgo lake.

Tsomgo Lake at the backdrop

Tsomgo lake (Changu Lake) is a glacial lake about 40 kilometers from Gangtok. It is a natural wonder as the lake is known to have waters of changing colors with change in seasons. We had arrived early winter, snowfall already had begun and the lake was placid white now, though not completely frozen. The lake is surrounded by steep sloping mountains giving it the appearance of a saucer. The word "Tsomgo" is derived from two Bhutia words - "Tso" meaning lake and "Mgo" meaning head. That literally meant the head or origin of the lake. The lake hosts the festivities of Guru Purnima, when holy healers called Jhakris assemble at the lake to reap benefits from it's healing waters. Standing here beside it's water felt serene... healing. My heart latched on to this place, somehow I felt connected. See, that is the thing with the mountains they embrace you in a way that nowhere else on the planet you will find.

While walking around we came across some locals providing "Yak" ride. Hesitating initially, but then we managed to convince ourselves for a ride. Just for 10 minutes we moved across the footpath on the edge of the lake. The Yak had ornately decorated horns and their long, black hair felt warm. Afternoon sun was hiding behind the dark clouds with temperature dropping down. It was time for us to leave as we had to get to Darjeeling before nightfall. With the events of the day and memories of moments at Nathula and Tsomgo lake dancing wild in our thoughts we headed back down to the township of Gangtok.

Riding on the mountain harden bovines... Yak Ride

Parting Thoughts

Nathula, a land of ancient reverence, carved millennia back when the earth collided  and raised the low land to sky high summits. A land where belief finds it's meaning and mortality merges into the immortal realm. Time and tide loose their significance yet somehow exist in the shadows. People who have conquered lands beyond have learned to bow down to the vast expanse of these mountains and the forces that govern them. They respect, they worship, they admire ... these highlands. Nathula is not just a place, it's an experience ... an experience that I am willing to have again any given moment of my homuncular life.

Nathula, as I remember seeing it

KALAPANI (Part II)

The countrymen struggling for independence in the mainland were not very aware of the grim conditions their comrades were enduring at Kalapani. The name "Kalapani" itself struck fear but the inhabitants knew fear by a different name... "David Barry".

The Cellular jail warden David Barry, a Scotsman reigned terror on the inmates of this prison during his term from 1909 to 1931. He derived his fame from the extreme cruelty and brutality that he bore on his sleeves. "While you are here, I am your God." - his welcome words to every new inmate of the open walled dungeon. Mr. Singh narrated a few stories, one of them being a conversation between Veer Savarkar and David Barry.

Barry and Savarkar

Barry commanded one of the inmates "Ullaskar Dutt to glean three liters of coconut oil in one day. To this Dutt replied that even an oxen couldn't glean two liters a day. His replay cost him dearly, Barry ordered the warders to fetter Dutt's hands to the ceiling and legs to the ground. He was left stranded as such for three days. When finally untied he fell to the ground senseless and soon after lost his mental composure.  

Vinayak Damodar Savarkar

 A few days later Barry met Veer Damodar Savarkar in his cell, and jeered at him..."Your friend Dutt got mad longing for freedom, when will follow suit." Savarkar with a hearty laugh darted back, "By the time I loose my mental balance, you and your British raj will be long gone from my motherland." And so did happen. Karma dawned... the men who kept the Motherland's sons away and tortured them, was not ever able to reach his own motherland. Barry got very ill at Cellular jail during the end of his term and wished to be immediately transferred to England. He never made it to his home. 

Every story that unfolded infront of us, ironically brought about a new sensation of pain and respect. It felt as if our steps on the stony hallway resonated alongside the shackle crackling sounds of the inmates that walked the same years ago. Somewhere deep within we started to fell connected and visuals of those events danced melancholically. The senile voice of Mr. Singh interjected our thoughts... "Sir, as you move up on the stairway you will find names of the inmates and the years they served here on the central column." he said pointing to one such name board on the first floor.".He continued with a heavy voice," Please help yourself with the tour of the prison cells and Central block sir. This old man will wait here if you do not mind". I obliged.

Silence was so predominant in a mob I realised and vice-versa. The bars of the cells still felt like worn and torn hands obtruded out... motionless figures sat hunched beside the dark walls ... and lifeless eyes peered through with hope of  freedom dangling at their corners. It was hard to step into these cells and not feel the pain. It engulfed us, overpowering any emotion that tried to rejoice. Without our knowledge tears paved their way out of our eyes. These tear held in them a sense of compassion, belongingness and yes indeed pride. The men who spent a part of their life here were our forefathers... Men of extraordinary determination and courage to sacrifice everything for the shake of their motherland. It was in those dark cells that it dawned at us the true meaning of the words - "Proud to be Indian".


We visited every floor of the tarrying three wings of the once seven star winged complex. The last cell on the second floor was assigned to Veer Savarkar, the man who escaped from the British clutches twice. His articles still adorn the specially designed cell - a rag cloth, a metal bowl and a small wooden stool with his portrait placed over it. Three cells on the ground floor of the same wing beneath Savarkar's cell were allotted to the doomed souls.



Hanging inmates was a ritual that was more intended to carry out law and order and crush any rebellion than a mode of capital punishment. The inmates that were sent to these three cell were next in line. It was a sort of public hanging, mostly on sundays. Early in the morning all the cell doors were opened and the inmates were allowed to come to the corridors from where they were made to witness the hangings. The ringing of the bell on the central tower would announce the gallows' claiming another victim ... the departure of holy souls. Port Blair was accustomed to such bell sounds very often. Their bodies were unceremoniously dumped into the sea and their mortal remains never received the proper honour they rightfully deserved. Such days would bring a cloud of gloom over every inmate and break them down shred by shred ...still the fight for freedom never ceased. It was almost time to leave as the Cellular jail would prepare itself for the bedazzled Light and sound show in the evening. We walked out to the main entrance accompanied by Mr. Singh, just casual talks flowing by.

Mr. Singh joined us for a hot cup of tea in the garden infront of Cellular jail. His stories recommenced ... he spoke of Mahavir Singh, a close associate of legendry Bhagat Singh who during a hunger strike was force fed with milk and chocked to death. His body along with Mohit Moitra and Mohan Kishor Namdas was offered to the sea discourteously.
Sher Ali, Pathan from Northern Frontier Province serving his term in cellular jail due to a family feud during 1872 stabbed and killed the then visiting Viceroy of India - Lord Mayo. He was soon after executed and the jail wall built to avoid any such incidents. Sips of tea warmed us up as did the stories. "This place has a lot to say ... but it will be too much for one to acknowledge Sir", Mr Singh said putting down his cup of tea. His eyes were old yet so vibrant and bedazzled with stories that he has been telling all this long.

He bade his farewell as the sun was going down the horizon of Andaman's sea. And left us waiting for the famous light and sound show of the Infamous Cellular jail. A pageantry that carved it's way into our hearts forever. Hand in hand me and my wife kept staring at the gates to open... neither of us had spoken a word since Mr. Singh left. The silence was long and reverberating.

The stage all set for a grand ceremony, the Cellular jail welcomed it's audience to the gallery. It was dusk then and the Amar jyoti glazed golden in the fading light. Clouds beyond the walls over-loomed to have their share of vista. We took to our seat. Overwhelming thoughts of the day's tour ringing hard on our mind we admired the panoramic view of the dungeon for one tiny moment. Those names kept coming back and their stories kept knocking hard on us. Lost in those thoughts as we were indulged in a casual conversation, it's then when the lights went on. And the whole open gallery went silent... an awe-inspiring sight. The southern wall was lit with blue strobe lights creating an illusion of waves, the storeys of northern wing cells illuminated with Indian tri-colour resembling a gigantic Indian flag and the setting evening sun creating a pious halo afar the western wall and Bell tower. A dictatorial throne annexed the centre stage, the figurine of a spread out man fettered to X shaped wooden plank stowed to it's left. Sound of crashing waves reverted from speakers, creating a eerie ambience.

The sacred fig tree (peepal tree) to the left to the seating space was brightened golden with lights focused on it. It played the chronicler of the events that followed. Time and episodes came and went by ... this tree witnessed all that transpired within these walls. Infact it prevailed before the walls ever existed. It stood in attendance as the first batch of inmates arrived and the last ones that left cheerfully.  Shattered during cyclones and nurtured by caring battered hands of the jail's occupants. Mutely felt the wrath of David Barry on the Holy mortal souls and rejoiced when Netaji Subash Chandra Bose hoisted the Indian Tricolour flag for the first time. Shuddered during the cruel reign of Japanese and bowed in acceptance to the admiration visitors like us showered.

The Peepal tree experienced it all and now it spoke... "I have stood here before the Cellular jail." - Voice of Mr. Om Puri rang loud, echoing across the courtyard.

I will not tell you what he spoke. It's a pilgrimage that every Indian should make. Be there once to realize what your freedom's worth.

I pay my respect to all the inmates that ever stepped into the Kaalapani and I bow to the ones who made the ultimate sacrifice. Every Indian owes you.

Heroes of 1857 (10th March 1858 onwards)

1. Abdullah Mohiuddin

2. Adhuria

3. Aga

4. Akbar Zama ,Syed

5. Alauddin, Maulavi Syed

6. Ambala Nanu

7. Aneer Khan

8. Amruta

9. Anajoe

10. Annu Nathu

11. Anwar khan Piare Khan

12. Aaoghad Bawa

13. Arjun

14. Ayuppa Hindulla

15. Babun Jummal khan

16. Bada Miya

17. Bagal, Yadu Patlu

18. Bahadur Goanburah

19. Bahadur Singh

20. Bala

21. Balakrishana

22. Barku

23. Barua, Dutiram

24. Bhai khan

25. Bandari Gopal

26. Bhikari

27. Bhima

28. Bhimaji

29. Bhim Rao

30. Bhiwa Lakma

31. Bhorji, Paddu

32. Bhosale, Atmaram Santu

33. Bhosale, Babaji Bhujanga

34. Bhosale, Ganu khandu

35. Bhosale, Raghu Manaji

36. Bhosale, Vithu Hangu

37. Bhosale, Vyankat Rao

38. Bhutia

39. Birbat kunbi

40. Budnya Peersaheb

41. Chaman Singh

42. Chauhan Sujan Singh

43. Chavan, Ganu Bapu

44. Chavan, Hari Biru

45. Chavan, Krishnappa Gopal

46. Chavan Mahadev.

47. Dadabhai Parbhudas

48. Dagdu

49. Dama

50. Damodar Abaji

51. Das Baladanda

52. Dattu Nathu

53. Davu Sarmalkar

54. Desai, Narayan

55. Desai ,Pancheli Govind

56. Desai, Raghoba

57. Devi

58. Devi Din

59. Deviji Sirsat

60. Devi Prasad

61. Dhaku Ghadi

62. Dharma

63. Dharma Subhana

64. Dhobey Gulgar

65. Dhondia Birbal

66. Dhondu, kalu

67. Dogra Mangal Singh

68. Doolum

69. Doulat Singh Pancham singh

70. Dutt, Shoo

71. Fakira, Lingappa

72. Fakru

73. Faras khan Imam khan

74. Fazal Haq khairabadi

75. Futta

76. Gaikwad Devji

77. Ganesh Maharaj

78. Gan Sawat

79. Ganu, Sakharam

80. Garbed, Haribhai

81. Gavali, Vithu

82. Ghatge, Hanumant

83. Ghouse Ghulam

84. Gokhale Bhikaji Ganesh

85. Gopala, Sant Sali

86. Govardhan

87. Govind

88. Govinda, Mahar

89. Govind, Vithu

90. Gowda, Govind

91. Gulab, khan

92. Gulia, Mudemiya

93. Hari

94. Hattee Singh

95. Hendlakar, Devji

96. Hidait- Ullah

97. Himanchal Singh

98. Hona ji

99. Horawan

100. Hussain Guljar

101. Hussain ,Hatela

102. Hussain Ibrahim

103. Hussain Shah, Fakir

104. Jadhav, Raghu

105. Jadav Subhana Bapu

106. Jagadesh Singh

107. Jairam, Rama

108. Jairam, Shivram

109. Jasmer Singh

110. Jawahr Singh

111. Jay Singh

112. Jewahkitippah

113. Jiwaji, Abhimanyu

114. Jorekar, Babi

115. Joshi, Krishnaji

116. Kabre Gunajli

117. Kadam, Apa Babu

118. Kadam, Ram

119. Kadam, Ravji Kalaji

120. Kagdia

121. Kakdia, Mahadu

122. Kallappa Hulgeppa

123. Kallu

124. Kallu Mubarak

125. Kallu Rehman

126. Kalu

127. Kalu Rajia

128. Kanhayya Veludi

129. Karim Rehman

130. Karsowkar Gopal

131. Karim khan

132. Katilbeg

133. Khandu Vithu

134. Khedu Lakshman

135. Khiran

136. Kifaitullah

137. Kisan, Santuram

138. Kochrakar Zillu

139. Kokamkar, Gopal

140. koli ,Manya

141. Konkankar Bombi

142. Kulkarni, Babaji Balaji

143. Kumbhar, Vithu Satwaji

144. Kunbi, Girwar

145. Kunbi, Jawahar

146. Kupason

147. Kura Singh

148. Kutwar,Sunkar

149. Lakarsha, Kalusha

150. Lalai

151. Liaqat Ali

152. Lingappa Sakarappa

153. Loney Singh

154. Madhu Mallick

155. Mahadik, Hybatrao Appa

156. Mahale Vithu Bahiru

157. Mahibullah

158. Majumder, Timappa

159. Mallik Jogi

160. Mallu Porka

161. Malwankar, Appa

162. Malya Yallapa

163. Mammu khan

164. Mane ,Narsingh

165. Mania

166. Manjayya, Malya

167. Mannu Singh

168. Maoji

169. Maoji, Dhundal

170. Maya Ram

171. Mandi Mochi

172. Mharu

173. Mhaskar, Rowloji Lingoji Naik

174. Mingali Kristun

175. Mirashi Ganesh

176. Mirashi, Narayan

177. Mirza Wilayat Hussain khan

178. Moghe, Gopal Shivram Joshi

179. Mohd Ismail Hussain Muneer

180. Mohd, Yar Khan

181. Mohan

182. Mohan Singh Pancham Singh

183. Mohite, Tatya

184. Morey, Limba Bhawni

185. Mosya, Arjun

186. Mulkundy, Lakshman

187. Musai Singh

188. Naik, Bhima

189. Naik, Bodark yashwant

190. Naik, Ganga Eka

191. Naik, Naroji Lingoji

192. Naik, Somia Jatra

193. Nalji Waradkir

194. Nana Chiloji

195. Nana Pokra

196. Narain

197. Narajekar Bhiku

198. Narsa Linga

199. Narsingh

200. Narsingh shivappa

201. Naru Dhula

202. Nassira

203. Niaz Mohd Khan

204. Niranjan Singh

205. Noora

206. Nuzzar Mohd

207. Pagay, Ranga Rao Ratnakar

208. Pandia

209. Pandu Pade

210. Pandu, Singinkar

211. Panjali Poku

212. Parulkar, Sadasiv Narayan

213. Pasi, Ramdin

214. Patel, Bhan Kanjora

215. Patel, Bhau Harji

216. Patel, Bhilla Atyia

217. Patel, Garbadas

218. Patel Itu

219. Patel, khushal Govind

220. Patel, Maoji Arjun

221. Patel, Pandu Dhondi

222. Patel, Trimbak Hari

223. Pawar ,Jivba Miru

224. Pawar, Vyanka

225. Phadnis ,Shridhar Sitaram

226. Poipkar, Bapu

227. Paradhan, Maoji Dharma

228. Qaim khan

229. Raja Meera

230. Raja Vyankat

231. Rama

232. Ramdin Ahir

233. Ramji Jagtap

234. Ram Parab

235. Ram Prasad

236. Ram Singh Indrasing

237. Rao, Rama

238. Rao, Sheeshgiri

239. Rao, Venkat

240. Ravji

241. Rawanekar, Bhikaji

242. Rawal ,Bisai Bhiku

243. Ray Singh

244. Rayu

245. Rohim

246. Rowyo

247. Rudrappa, Bhima

248. Rulya Limji

249. Sakarappa, Gourappa

250. Shaka Ram

251. Salvi, Gopal

252. Sandu

253. Santu Chandu

254. Sanu Bagal

255. Sathe Bhau

256. Satodar, Govind

257. Sawant, Babaji

258. Sawant, Ganu

259. Sawant, Maun Appa

260. Sawant, Puttaji Baburao

261. Sawant,Trimbak

262. Sawant,Vishram

263. Sawant, Doud

264. Shah ,Jahanda

265. Shah, Manju

266. Shah, Qutub

267. Shah, Sarvar

268. Shambhu Kautnakar

269. Shankar Maharaj

270. Sheik Ali

271. Sheik Formud Ali

272. Sheik Mannu

273. Shevde, Narayan Vishwanath

274. Shinde, Narayan Piraji

275. Shinde, Rama Raghu

276. Shivappa Sangappa

277. Shridhar Bhikun

278. Siraj-Uddin

279. Somia

280. Subasing

281. Suka

282. Suka Maraya

283. Sultan Paras

284. Supria

285. Suznya Suthu

286. Syed Ahmed

287. Tammanna Lakshman

288. Tendulkar, Raghu

289. Thakur Lakshman

290. Thorat, Bapu Naroji

291. Tinajah

292. Tiwari, Dudhnath

293. Trembak, Raghu

294. Tukaram Krishnaji

295. Tulia

296. Tulpia

297. Vaingankar Vithu

298. Vanda Soma

299. Viloba Valaji

300. Vista Babaji

301. Vithoba

302. Vithoba, Nujakar

303. Vithu

304. Vithu Bava

305. Vyankappa Sakarappa

306. Wazir

307. Yadav, Chinnaji

308. Yerappa, Gangaram

309. Yesa Nathia

PRE-CELLULAR JAIL DEPORTATIONS (Wahabi Movement, Anglo Manipuri Revolt & others) 1864 onwards)

1. Abdul Gaffar

2. Abdul Gaffur

3. Abdul Karim

4. Abdul Rahim Sadiqpuri

5. Ahmedullah

6. Amir Khan

7. Amiruddin

8. Angou Sana

9. Ayapurel

10. Deo, Brij kishore Singh

11. Hasmatdad Khan

12. Jodh Singh

13. Kula Chandra Singh

14. Luwang Ningthou

15. Masud khan

16. Mohd. Shafi Hussain

17. Mohd. Shafi Lahori

18. Mondal, Ibrahim

19. Sher Ali 

20. Tabarak Ali

21. Thanesari, Mohd Jafar

22. Yahya Ali

POLITICAL PRISONERS IN THE CELLULAR JAIL  1909-21

1. Alla-ud-din

2. Ali Ahmed Siddiqui

3. Amar Singh

4. Amar Singh Nandbol

5. Banerjee, Upendra Nath

6. Basu, Ashwani Kumar

7. Basu, Satya Ranjan

8. Bhan Singh

9. Bhattacharjee, Abinash Chandra

10. Bhattacharjee, Harendra Kumar

11. Bhowmick, Madan Mohan

12. Bishen Singh, S/o Jawala Singh

13. Bishen Singh, S/o kesar Singh

14. Bishen Singh, S/o Jeevan Singh

15. Bishen Singh ,S/o Ram Singh

16. Biswas, Surendera Nath

17. Channan Singh

18. Chattar Singh

19. Chattar Singh

20. Chet Ram

21. Chuher Singh

22. Chakarborty, Abani Bhushan

23. Chakarborty, Trailokya Nath

24. Chatterjee, Sanukul

25. Chatterjee ,Satish Chandra

26. Chandra ,Nagendran Chandra

27. Chaudhury, Khagendra Nath

28. Chaudhury, Naren Mohan Ghosh

29. Das, Hem Chandra

30. Das, Pulin Behari

31. Datta, Brojendra Nath

32. Deena

33. Dutta, Sachindra Nath

34. Dey, Bidhu Bhushan

35. Dey, Suhir Chandra

36. Dutta, Ullaskar

37. Gewan singh Marhana

38. Ghosh, Barindra Kumar

39. Ghosh, Bhupendra Nath

40. Ghosh, Kalidas

41. Girdhari Lal

42. Govind Ram

43. Gurudas Singh

44. Guruditt Singh

45. Gurmukh Singh

46. Gurumukh Singh

47. Harandev Singh

48. Hardit Singh

49. Harnam Singh

50. Hazra ,Amrit lal

51. Hazra Singh

52. Hirda Ram

53. Hussain Mohd Mujtaba

54. Inder Singh, S/o Ala Singh

55. Inder Singh, S/o Mulah Singh

56. Jagat Ram

57. Jalaldeen

58. Jawala Singh

59. Jawand Singh

60. Jayram Singh

61. Jeevan Singh

62. Joshi, Daji Narayan

63. Kala Singh, S/o Gasota Singh

64. Kala Singh, S/o Gulab Singh

65. Kanjilal Hrishikesh

66. Kapur Singh

67. Kar, Gobinda Chandra

68. Karam Chand

69. Kartar Singh

70. Kehar Singh,S/o Nihal Singh

71. Kehar Singh, S/o Bhan Singh

72. Kehar Singh, S/o Bhagat Singh

73. Kesar Singh

74. Kirpa Ram

75. Kirpal Singh

76. Kusal Singh

77. Ladha Ram

78. Lahiri Ashutosh

79. Lakhan Singh

80. Lal Singh, S/o Mohan Singh

81. Lal Singh, S/o Uday Singh

82. Madan Singh

83. Mabgal Singh

84. Manohar Singh

85. Mansha Singh

86. Mehardeen

87. Mehar Singh

88. Mohammadi

89. Mohd Akram khan

90. Mitra Sachindra Lal

91. Mukherjee, Nani Gopal

92. Nand Singh, S/o Ram Singh

93. Nand Singh, S/o Punjab Singh

94. Nandgopal

95. Nidhan Singh

96. Nadir Ali Shah

97. Natha Singh

98. Pal, Kinuram

99. Pal, Nakunja Behari

100. Parmanand ,S/o Gaya Prasad

101. Parmanand Bhai, S/o Bhai Tara Chand

102. Paul, Jyotish Chandra

103. Piara Singh

104. Prithvi Singh Azad

105. Raja Ram

106. Ram Charan Lal

107. Ram Hari

108. Ram Rakha

109. Ram Saran Das

110. Randhir Singh

111. Rattan Chand

112. Roda Singh

113. Roshan Lall

114. Roy , Gopendra lal

115. Roy, Indubhushan

116. Roy Nikhil Ranjan Guha

117. Roy, Nirapada

118. Roy, Phanindra Bhushan

119. Rulia Singh

120. Rurh Singh

121. Sadiq

122. Sajjan Singh

123. Sandhi

124. Sanyal, Kshitij Chandra

125. Sanyal ,Sachindra Nath

126. Sarkar Bibhuti Bhushan

127. Sarkar Bidhu Bhushan

128. Sarkar Nagendra Nath

129. Sarkar, Sudhir kumar

130. Savarkar, Ganesh Damodar

131. Savarkar, Vinayak Damodar

132. Sen, Biren Chandra

133. Sengupta, Suresh Chandra

134. Sher Singh

135. Shiv Singh

136. Singhara Singh

137. Sohan Singh Bhakna

138. Sawan Singh

139. Sucha Singh

140. Sunder Singh

141. Suren Singh

142. Surjan Singh

143. Teja Singh

144. Thakur Singh

145. Udham Singh

146. Verma Hotilal

147. Wasakha Singh

148. Waswa Singh

149. Wilayati

HEROES OF CELLULAR JAIL 1922-31(Moplah Revolt, Manyam Heroes and others)

1. Ahmed Kutty, Mattummal

2. Ahmed Kutty, Variyath Valappil

3. Alavi, Haji Nelliparamban

4. Alavi, Machinchari

5. Alavi, Poovakundi

6. Athan Chungatto

7. Birayiah Dora, Taggi

8. Dublis, Vishnu Sharan

9. Kayarni, Pokat

10. Kotiaha, KarAbu

11. Koyakutty,Kazhisseri

12. Kunjeni, Kayakhatiparambil

13. Kunjalavi, kolaparamban

14. Kunjara, Kathukalan

15. Kunjayammun ,Mukri

16. Kunjeedu, Neehiyil

17. Kunji Kadar Molla, Puthampeedi Kayet

18. Kutty Hasan, Chakkupurakkal

19. Marakkar, Pooyikuman

20. Marakkar, Mathummal

21. Moideen kutty,Poolakuyyil kunhi

22. Pandu Padal, Bonangi

23. Pockar, Anipa

24. Pothaiah Korabu

25. Raja ,Auggi

26. Rayin, Machingol

27. Saidalippa, Ambattuparamban

28. Saniage Saiah, Golivilli

29. Sanyashi, Kuncheti

30. Shukla, Lakshmi Kanta

POLITICAL PRISONERS IN THE CELLULAR JAIL (1932-38)

1. Acharjee, Gopal Chandra

2. Acharjee, Suresh Chandra

3. Adhikari, Mohit Chandra

4. Adhir Chandra Singh

5. Agarwal, Shyam krishna

6. Ajay Chandra Singh

7. Anant Lal Singh

8. Bachchu LAl

9. Bagchi, Amlendu

10. Bairuni, Provakar

11. Bakshi, Hemchandra

12. Banerjee, Bibhuti Bhsuhan

13. Banerjee,BhupeshChandra

14. Banerjee,Haripada

15. Banerjee,Kali Mohan

16. Banerjee,Madhusudhan

17. Banerjee, Maoranjan

18. Banerjee, Mrityunaya

19. Banerjee, Rabindranth

20. Banerjee, Shirod

21. Banerjee, Susheel kumar

22. Banik, Dharni Mohan

23. Banik, Dinesh Chandra

24. Banik, Surendra Chandra

25. Barua, Mahesh Chandra

26. Barua, Nirendra lall

27. Basu, Bhupal Chandra

28. Bawl, Loknath

29. Bera ,Govinda

30. Bharatwar, Shyama Charan

31. Bhattacharjee, Ananta Kumar

32. Bhattacharjee. Bhupesh Chandra

33. Bhattacharjee, Bimal Chandra

34. Bhattacharjee, Chandra Nath

35. Bhattacharjee,Dhirendra Kumar

36. Bhattacharjee, Haripada

37. Bhattacharjee, Hem Chandra

38. Bhattacharjee, Hrishikesh

39. Bhattacharjee,Joyesh Chandra

40. Bhattacharjee, khudi Ram

41. Bhattacharjee, koumudi Kanta

42. Bhattacharjee, Saradindra

43. Bhattacharjee, Shashi Mohan

44. Bhattacharjee, Sudir Chandra

45. Bhowmick, Bimal Chandra Dey

46. Bhowmick, Himangshu

47. Bhowmick, Mahendra

48. Bhowmick, Prafulla Chandra

49. Biswas,Bhagwan Chandra

50. Biswas, Chittaranjan

51. Biswas ,Dharni kanta

52. Biswas, Dhirendra Kumar

53. Biswas, Krishna

54. Biswas, Prafulla Kumar

55. Bose, Benoy Kumar

56. Bose, Haripada

57. Bose, Hrishikesh

58. Bose, Jagath Bandhu

59. Bose, Pramod Ranjan

60. Bose, Saradha Prasanna

61. Bose, Satyendra Kumar

62. Bux, Mohd. Illahi

63. Chakraborty, Ananta Kumar, S/o Chandra Mohan Debasarma

64. Chakraborty, Ananta Kumar, S/o Durga Mohan Chakraborty

65. Chakraborty, Bankim Chandra

66. Chakraborty, Bijoy Krishna

67. Chakraborty, Bimalendu

68. Chakraborty, Biru Bhushan

69. Chakraborty, Dharni Kanta

70. Chakraborty, Dhirendra

71. Chakraborty, Direndra Chandra

72. Chakraborty, Haribol

73. Chakraborty, Hemendra Nath

74. Chakraborty, Jeetendra Nath

75. Chakraborty, Jogendra Chandra

76. Chakraborty, Jogesh Chandra

77. Chakraborty, Kalachand

78. Chackraborty, Kalipada, S/o Ram Chandra Chakraborty

79. Chackraborty, Kalipada , S/o Shyam Charan Chakraborty

80. Chackraborty, Krishna Pada

81. Chackraborty, Lalit Chandra

82. Chackraborty, Mokshada Ranjan

83. Chackraborty, Nibaran Chandra

84. Chackraborty, Pran Kishore

85. Chackraborty Priyada Nandan

86. Chackraborty, Provot Chandra

87. Chackraborty, Rajendra Nath

88. Chackraborty, Shanti Pada

89. Chackraborty, Shashindra

90. Chackraborty, Susheel Kumar

91. Chackraborty, S.N.

92. Chandra, Bhuban mohan

93. Chandrika Singh

94. Chatterjee, Anukul Chandra

95. Chatterjee, Daeubesh Chandra

96. Chatterjee, Hira Mohan

97. Chatterjee, Keshab Lal

98. Chatterjee, Ramesh Chandra

99. Chatterjee, Sunil Kumar

100. Chaubey, Suraj Nath

101. Chaudhury Abdul Qadir

102. Chaudhury, Akshay Kumar

103. Chaudhury, Birendra Vinod

104. Chaudhury, Dhirendra Nath

105. Chaudhury, Haripado

106. Chaudhury, Kali prasanna Roy

107. Chaudhury, Madan Mohan Roy

108. Chaudhury, Kshtij Chandra

109. Chaudhury, Manindra Lall

110. Chaudhury, Manoranjan

111. Chaudhury, Nishakanti Roy

112. Chaudhury, Nitya Ranjan

113. Chaudhury, Paresh Chandra

114. Chaudhury, Pradyot Kumar

115. Chaudhury, S.N.

116. Chaudhury, Subodh Kumar

117. Chaudhury, Sudhir Ranjan

118. Chaudhury, Surendra Dhar

119. Dam, Sudhendra Chandra

120. Das, Chintaharan

121. Das, Deb Kumar

122. Das, Dhirendra Chandra,S/o Jogindera Kishore Das

123. Das, Dhirendra Chandra

124. Das, Dinesh Chandra, S/o Mahesh Das

125. Das, Dinesh Chandra, S/o Raj Mohan Das

126. Das, Durga Shankar

127. Das, Gauranga Das

128. Das, Harendra

129. Das, Hirday Kanta

130. Das, Hirday Ranjan

131. Das, Indu Bhushan

132. Das, Jagnesshwar

133. Das, Janaki Mohan

134. Das ,Jibendra Kumar

135. Das, Jogesh Chandra

136. Das ,Karthick Chandra

137. Das, Nalini Mohan

138. Das, Nanigopal

139. Das, Narendra Nath

140. Das, Ramesh Chandra

141. Das, Sharat Dhupi

142. Das, Sahay Ram

143. Das, Suresh Chandra

144. Dasgupta, Bimal Kumar

145. Dasgupta, Dinesh Chandra

146. Dasgupta. Madan Lal

147. Dasgupta, Nagendra Nath

148. Dasgupta, Nandlal

149. Dasgupta, NAnigopal

150. Dasgupta ,Phani Bhushan

151. Dasgupta, Randir

152. Dasgupta, Sudhangshu Lall

153. Dasgupta, Sudhangshu Bhushan

154. Dasgupta, Susheel Kumar

155. Dastidar, Sukhendu Bikas

156. Deb, Biraj Mohan

157. Deb, Chunni Lal

158. Dey, Ananta Lal

159. Dey,Arvind

160. Dey,Gagan Chandra

161. Dey,Gopal Chandra

162. Dey, Haripada

163. Dey, Jamini Kumar

164. Dey, Jyotindra Chandra

165. Dey, Kali kickar

166. Dey,Kamini Kumar

167. Dey, Kiran Chandra

168. Dey, Kirpa Nath

169. Dey, Makhan Lall

170. Dey, Nagendra Lall

171. Dey, Rakhal Chandra

172. Dey, Susheel Kumar

173. Dey, Usha Ranjan

174. Dey, Manen Chandra

175. Dhanvantari

176. Dhar, Dinesh Chandra

177. Dubey, Gauri Shankar

178. Dutt Batukeshwar

179. Dutta, Atul Chandra

180. Dutta, Chittaranjan

181. Dutta, Dhirendra Chandra

182. Dutta, Gaur Gopal

183. Dutta, Harihar

184. Dutta, Hemchandra

185. Dutt, Madhusudhan

186. Dutta, Manindra Lall

187. Dutta ,Manmath Nath

188. Dutta, Mathura Nath

189. Dutta, Nripendra

190. Dutta, Rajat Bhushan

191. Dutta, Santhosh

192. Dutta, Saillesh Chandra

193. Dutta, Surendra Nath

194. Ganguly, Mani

195. Ganguly, Ramani Rajan

196. Gaya Prasad ,Dr.

197. Ghatak, Achyut Nath

198. Ghosh, Abani Ranjan

199. Ghosh, Barindra Kumar

200. Ghosh , Bijoy Kumar

201. Ghosh, Ganesh

202. Ghosh,Kamakya Charan

203. Ghosh, Kumud Nath

204. Ghosh, Narendra Chandra

205. Ghosh, Narendra Prasad

206. Ghosh, Pramtha Nath

207. Ghosh, Pravot Chandra

208. Ghosh, Parimal

209. Ghosh, Sata Ranjan

210. Ghosh, Samarendra Nath

211. Ghosh, Sudhir Chandra

212. Ghoshsu,Kumar

213. Gope, Radha Ballabh

214. Goswami, Murari Mohan

215. Goswami, Prabir Kumar

216. Goswami, Purna Chandra

217. Goswami, Shridhar

218. Guha, Buphesh Chandra

219. Guha, Bidhu Bhushan

220. Guha ,Jogendra Nath

221. Guha, Nirmalendu

222. Guha, Paresh Chandra

223. Guha, Saroj Kanti

224. Gupta, Ananda Prasad

225. Gupta, Gnanan Govinda

226. Gupta, Gulab Chand

227. Gupta, Jeetendra Nath

228. Gupta , Nagendra Nath

229. Gupta, Sachindra Lal Kar

230. Gupta, Surendra Nath Dutta

231. Gurumukh Singh

232. Hazara Singh

233. Home, Sachindra Chandra

234. Kapoor, Jaidev

235. Kar, Govinda Chandra

236. Karanji, Raj Mohan

237. Karmakar, Babhathosh

238. Karamakar, Bholanath Ray

239. Karamakar, Subal Chandra Roy

240. Keor, Uma Shankar

241. Keshav Prasad, Dr.

242. Khanger Haran Chandra

243. Konar, Harekrishna

244. Kundal Lall

245. Lahiri, Birendra Chandra Dr .

246. Lahiri, Sudhanghshu kiran

247. Lalit Mohan Singh

248. Lashkar, Vinay bhushan

249. Mahavir Singh

250. Majumder, Jitendra Chandra Dey

251. Majumder, Jyotish

252. Majumdar, Kirti

253. Majumdar, Prafulla Kumar

254. Majumdar, Satyendra Narayan

255. Majumdar, Sudhangshu Narayan Das

256. Malay Krishan Brahmachari

257. Malik Rakhal Das

258. Mathur, Viswanathan

259. Mehta, Kushiram

260. Mishra, Kanhai Lal

261. Missir, Mahavir

262. Mitra, Ajit Kumar

263. Mitra, Amulya Charan

264. Mitra, Pravot Kumar

265. Mitra ,Sachindra Nath

266. Mitra, Satish Mohan

267. Mohmmed Ibrahim

268. Molla, Jeevan

269. Mondal, Upendra

270. Modak, Nagendra Chandra

271. Moitra, Mohit

272. Mukherjee, Abani Kumar

273. Mukherjee, Abhay Pada

274. Mukherjee, Amarendra Nath

275. Mukherjee, Amritendra Nath

276. Mukherjee, Ananta Kumar

277. Mukherjee, Anil Chandra

278. Mukherjee, Jagananda

279. Mukherjee, Kumud Bihari

280. Mukherjee, Pran Gopal

281. Mustafa, Nagendra Mohan

282. Nag ,Adhir Ranjan

283. Nag, Mohan Lal

284. Naha , Dwijendra Nath

285. Namadav, Mohan Kishore

286. Nanda, Dulal Singh

287. Nandi ,Fanindra Lall

288. Nandi, Sachindra Kumar

289. Nanku Singh

290. Narayan, Shyamdev

291. Niyogi, Ravindra Chandra

292. Pal, Ananda Charan

293. Panda, Bhupal Chandra

294. Patitunta, Bhaba Ranjan

295. Prakashi, Satish Chandran

296. Prem Prakash

297. Puran Chand

298. RahaL,Lalit Chandra

299. Ram Partap Singh

300. Ram Singh

301. Ray, Narayan Chandra

302. Roy, Samadish Chandra

303. Roy, Amulya Kumar

304. Roy, Bangeswar

305. Roy, Benoy Bhusan Dey

306. Roy, Birendra Nath

307. Roy, Dharindhar

308. Roy, Gopendra Lall

309. Roy, Jagat Bandhu

310. Roy ,Jyotirmoy

311. Roy, Kalipada

312. Roy, Khokha

313. Roy, Krishna Chandra

314. Roy, Moti Lall

315. Roy, Mukul Chandra

316. Roy, Nikhil Ranjan Guha

317. Roy, Prabodh Kumar

318. Roy, Pravas Chandra

319. Roy, Ravindra Nath Ghuha

320. Roy, Samadish

321. Roy, Sanatan

322. Roy, Saroj Bhushan

323. Roy, Satish Chandra Bose

324. Roy, Satyendra Chandra

325. Roy, Sailesh Chandra

326. Roy, Sitangshu Bhushan Dutta

327. Roy, Subodh Chandra

328. Roy, Sudhindra Mohan

329. Roy, Sudhir Chandra

330. Roy, Surendhra Mohan Kar

331. Sahay, Ram Chandra

332. Samajdar, Harbandhu

333. Samajdar, Kasbah Chandra

334. Samajdar, Ramendra Nath

335. Samajdar, Sudhir Kumar

336. Sanyal, Prafulla Narayan

337. Sarkar, Bimal Kumar

338. Sarkar, Gamiruddin

339. Sarkar, Karthick

340. Sarkar, Rajani kanta

341. Sarkar, Nepal Chandra

342. Sarkar, Ramakrishna

343. Sarkhel, Surendra Nath

344. Satyabrata

345. Sen, Bidhu Bhushan

346. Sen, Fakir Chand

347. Sen, Lal Mohan

348. Sen, Manindra Chandra

349. Sen, Shanti Gopal

350. Sen,Suneermal

351. Sengupta, Amulya Charan

352. Sengupta,Bijon Kumar

353. Sengupta, Mukul Ranjan

354. Sengupta, Nalini Ranjan

355. Sengupta, Niranjan

356. Sengupta, Prasannata Kumar

357. Sengupta ,Sudhangshu Kumar

358. Sengupta, Sukumar

359. Shaha, Anaath Bandhu

360. Shaha, Bhupesh Chandra

361. Shaha, Bidhyadhar

362. Shaha ,Dinesh Chandra

363. Shaha, Gopi Mohan

364. Shaha ,Haridas

365. Shaha, Manmohan

366. Shaha, Revati Mohan

367. Shaha, Upendra Nath

368. Shambu, Nath Azaad

369. Sharma, Bharat Chandra

370. Sheel, Prakash Chandra

371. Shivam, Sachidananda

372. Shrimani, Kamala kanta

373. Shukla ,Jogendra

374. Shukla, Kedarmani

375. Sinha, Bejoy Kumar

376. Siraj-ul-Haq

377. Sutradhar, Amar Chandra

378. Talpatra, Dwijendra Nath

379. Talikdar, Bebhesh Chandra

380. Talukdar,Debendra Kumar

381. Tarafdar, Benoy Kumar

382. Thakurta ,Jeevan Krishto

383. Thakurta, Manoranjan

384. Tiwari, Kamalnath

385. Venkateshawar Rao, Prativadi Bhayankara

386. Verma, Shiv

Members of INA and IIL, Andaman Branch incarcerated in the Cellular Jail under False Spy Cases & later killed during the Japanese Occupation of the Islands 1942-45

Shot Dead at Dugnabad (Port Blair) on 30.3.1943

1. Narayan Rao

2. Itter Singh

3. Gopal krishana

4. Dr. Surendre Nath Nag

5. Andul Khaliq

6. Sub. Suba Khan

7. Chota Singh

Shot Dead at Homfraygunj on 30.1.1944

1. Abdul Jalil

2. Anant lal

3. Bachan Singh

4. Balwant Singh

5. Bunta Singh

6. Bakshi Singh

7. Basant Lal

8. Dulpat Ram

9. Dulip Singh

10. Farzand Ali

11. Fazal Beg

12. Fazal Hussain

13. Gulam Sarvar

14. Gajjan Singh

15. Gyan Singh

16. Gopal Singh

17. Hira Singh Chawla

18. Hammam Singh

19. H.H. Rahlkar

20. Jaswant Singh

21. Jauaram Tiwari

22. Kaur Singh Chawla

23. Kamail Singh

24. Lakshman Dass Sankwa

25. Mohar Singh

26. Malkhan Singh

27. Mulki Raj

28. Mir Alam

29. Mahima Singh

30. Mohammed Khan

31. Noor Hussain Malik

32. Noor Ahamed

33. Noor Mahi

34. Prem Shanker Pandey

35. Pokar Singh Chawla

36. Paras Ram

37. Pratap Nath Nag

38. Radha Kishan

39. Ratan Chand

40. Raj Ratan Dass

41. Satyan Dass

42. Sahib Singh

43. Dr. Sher Singh

44. Uttam Singh

Tortured to Death in the Cellular Jail

1. Bagwan Dass

2. Bakshish Singh

3. Baldev Sahai Gidru

4. Bhikam Singh

5. Charanji Lal

6. Dr.Diwan Singh Dhillon

7. Dhanak Dhari Lal

8. Faizul Hassan

9. Farman Shah

10. Gulab Khan

11. Hari Kishen

12. Lal Singh

13. Moti Ram

14. Niranjan Lal

15. Patti Ram

16. Santa Singh

17. Sangara Singh

18. Santa Singh

19. Muthu Swamy Naidu V.